What Is Conversion Varnish?

What Is Conversion Varnish?

If you’re searching for what is conversion varnish, conversion varnish advantages, or conversion varnish problems; this post will help.  Conversion varnish is one of the best finishes that can be applied to wood, and is incredibly popular for cabinet doors, but it does require professional application.  Learn more about this highly durable and visually stunning finish for your cabinet doors here.

What Is Conversion Varnish?

Conversion varnish is lacquer which consists of a high-end solid two-part post-catalyzed application process. What this means is that at the time of application a hardening agent must be mixed in with the lacquer to provide the additional durability.  Conversion varnish is chemical-cured and consists of 40-60% solids.  Conversion varnish does cost more than house lacquer, but it is also much more durable and easy to clean.  It is this characteristic that makes it an excellent option for painted cabinet doors.

Conversion Varnish Advantages

Conversion varnish is the premium paint finish for all sorts of projects, including cabinetry and cabinet doors.  When you want the best and longest lasting finish conversion varnish delivers.  It is more durable, easy to clean, and has elasticity which helps it stay looking great!

Better Durability

When compared to basic home lacquer paint; conversion varnish wins in durability.  It is largely a solid coating which is hardened during the application process.  It doesn’t have a tacky feeling like some of the regular house paints.  So, it is better for high traffic and high use areas of the home.

Clear Coat Finish

When conversion varnish is applied there it has a clear coat look.  This highly polished appearance brings a refined appearance to your kitchen or bathroom in your home.  In addition to looking great the ultra smooth and durable surface is quick and easy to clean or wipe down after cooking big meals.

Better Elasticity

For cabinet doors in kitchens and bathrooms humidity is a factor.  All wood no matter how well it is finished with have a reaction to elevated levels of humidity.  As humidity rises the wood will swell and as it falls it will contract.  Conversion varnish’s elasticity will help prevent cracking in your finish!

Easy To Clean

Conversion varnish simply applies smoother and doesn’t have a tacky or sticky feel like many kinds of house paints.  That means if some food or mess gets on your cabinet doors it will be easier to clean.  Better still is the coating is more durable and will stay looking great after years of cleaning.

Conversion Varnish Problems

Problems with conversion varnish are always a product of faulty application.  The Door Stop exclusively uses the most skilled craftsmen to for our painted cabinet doors.  You should be aware of the potential problems if you order from elsewhere, have doors that already have problems, or if you are thinking about trying to apply a conversion varnish yourself.

  • Must be applied by skilled painter
  • Color shifting due to the acid catalyst
  • Never apply more than about 3 coats or the finish can crack
  • Shop temperature must be in the upper 60s for 2 days after application

Conversion Varnish vs Polyurethane

Conversion varnish is more costly than polyurethane, but it is also much longer lasting and durable.  People have said for generations that you get what you pay for, and in this case, it is true.  While it might cost a little more it is a better value because conversion varnish.  So in the long run you’ll have a painted surface that last longer and saves you money and time in having to repaint your cabinet doors.

Shop For Painted Cabinet Doors

If you’re in the market for new cabinet doors and you want a nice white look for your bathroom or kitchen cabinet door, we can help!  We proudly offer the highest quality doors with the finest conversion varnish paint.  They are finely made and then expertly finished to provide our valued customers with the absolute highest quality product at the best prices!

Click here to shop painted cabinet doors

White Shaker Cabinet Doors For Sale

White Shaker Cabinet Doors For Sale

If you’re searching for white shaker cabinet doors for sale for your kitchen or bathroom, they are now available from The Door Stop!  We are proud to now offer white shaker cabinet doors straight from the factory.  You measure for the cabinet doors you need, select paint grade on the Shaker Cabinet Door page, and then select the “Primed and Finished White” option listed under Paint Grade Options.

What Is A Shaker Cabinet Door?

A shaker cabinet door is one that features 5-piece cope and stick construction.  Cope and stick is a type of wood joinery that has top and bottom frame sections that fit into the edge frame sections.  Shaker cabinet doors also typically feature an inset panel.  Inset panels are those that are flat and are made from wood or glass.

White Shaker Cabinet Door Advantages

White shaker cabinet doors have seen an explosion of popularity in recent years.  This is due to them offering a clean and airy look, having a neutral color, being a durable cabinet door design, and are perfect for both bathrooms, laundry rooms, and kitchens.

Clean & Airy Look

Today’s kitchens and bathrooms are made to be bright and welcoming.  Gone are the days where most homeowners want darker colored woods in their homes that make rooms feel smaller and cramped.  The white color on these doors makes the room feel bigger and gives the sense of a clean kitchen.

Neutral Color & Design

White shaker cabinet doors have a neutral color that not only fits in with virtually any design you’ve already got going but will still look great if you want to change the style of your kitchen or bathroom.  The design of shaker cabinet doors is also simple and clean which gives you license to change the style of your crown moulding and baseboards.

Durable Cabinet Door Design

Shaker cabinet doors are built to last with the durable cope and stick joinery method.  The design features a inset MDF panel which resists size changes due to variations in humidity.  Every door we build is built to your exact measurements using the latest industrial precision woodworking machines.  For white shaker cabinet doors we prime and paint using only the highest quality longest lasting products.

Perfect For Any Room

White shaker cabinet doors feature a timeless design and neutral color that makes them perfect for any room that has cabinetry in your home.  From the kitchen and bathroom to the laundry room or even living room the white shaker cabinet door design offers your home the finest look.

Shop For White Shaker Cabinet Doors

If you’d like to enjoy having the timeless and clean style of white shaker cabinet doors in your home, The Door Stop can help!  We are the factory and sell direct to homeowners, cabinetry shops, and even retail locations.  We offer homeowners the ability to order their doors at wholesale pricing that was only accessible by ordering in volume before.

Click Here to shop for White Shaker Cabinet Doors

Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors – Which Woods Paint Best & Which Woods To Avoid?

Painted-Cabinet-Doors

Paint-Grade-Cabinet-Doors-–-Which-Woods-Paint-Best-Which-Woods-To-Avoid

 

Paint-brush-adobe-15

Many folks searching the internet for Poplar Cabinets or Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors find our website, Cabinetdoors.com, and ask questions about painting cabinet doors. After explaining the pros and cons of painting a cabinet door, we decided to add the question-and-answer to our Blog.

Because we manufacture kitchen cabinet doors, and have built many ten’s of thousands of paint grade cabinet doors, we have acquired significant experience with the different wood types. Some wood types paint well and some not so well. Usually if we are told that the cabinet door is going to be painted, and the wood requested will not paint well, we can offer a suggestion that another wood type might be a better candidate for painting.

Most Popular Woods Used On Paint Grade Cabinet Doors

The woods typically used by professionals on their paint-grade cabinet doors are the tighter-grained woods like Poplar, Soft Maple, Alder, Pine, Birch, Hard Maple, and MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). The woods we offer can be seen here.

Woods like Oak are rarely painted because of the “Orange peel” look the open grain causes.
If an open grain wood like Oak is the only choice you have, it is recommended that the grain be filled with Drywall putty, Bondo, or a similar thick sealer then sanded to a smooth surface before painting.

The prices for the recommended paint-grade woods run from Poplar (cheapest), Soft Maple, Alder, Pine, Birch, and Hard Maple being the most expensive. Birch Wood is actually the same wood most pull out shelves are constructed with.

Each of these woods have their own advantages and disadvantages, but there are a few practices that will apply to whichever wood type is chosen to paint.

  • The first is the “prep-prep-prep” rule. That means that every hour spent preparing the cabinet door for painting saves two hours in repainting.
  • The second is the 5-F’s rule. This rule is “Fine Finishers Finish Firewood First”. It simply means that experimenting with your finish on scrap wood can prevent ruining a door with a failed finishing attempt.
  • The third is always break all sharp edges with fine sandpaper before painting. Sharp edges will not hold paint and will give the dried paint an unpainted spot to absorb moisture.
  • The forth is to keep in mind that all wood types will expand and contract with changes in humidity. The paint will slow these humidity-caused wood movements, but no paint is totally moisture-proof, and paint will not stop the movements. This humidity-movement of wood presents another potential issue for the painted cabinet door. When the paint dries, it will no longer have the elasticity to move with the wood; so it will crack, usually along the glue joints where the Stiles & Rails join.
  • The fifth relates to the hardness of the paint-grade wood. The softer the wood, the more easily it will dent, if hit with a pot or frying pan. The dent in the wood may be slight and hardly noticeable, but dried paint doesn’t dent without cracking. The weakest link in any painted cabinet door is not the door. Regardless of the wood type used, the weakest link is always the paint.
  • The sixth practice covers the method of application of the paint. The desired look from painting a cabinet door is usually a high gloss finish, similar to the finish on a piano. A finish of this quality will certainly require a highly experienced finishing professional, and a dust-free spray booth. This doesn’t mean you can’t achieve an excellent finish, but it does mean you won’t get this piano-finish with a paint brush in your driveway. To get a professional looking finish you will need to spray-on the paint. Not from a Krylon can, but from an compressed-air, or airless, spray painting system.

Blame The Grain

Wood that is used to paint for cabinets or other purposes typically features tight grained wood species.  These are woods such as maple, poplar, pine, and others.  The tight surface of the wood provides a good surface for the paint to be applied to and covers the natural ripples and texture in the wood. Open grained wood as more prominent grain which has rougher texture.  To look good when painted these open grained woods need to be covered with filler to have that smooth look when painted.

Soft Maple & Poplar

Soft maple and poplar are common for the door panels, end frames, and face frames in cabinet doors. This is because they are workable and keeps cost down. Many carpenters and cabinet makers find that poplar can dent easily and tends to absorb more paint than other species. Other tight grained woods are easier to work with and paint yet are more costly and sometimes have limited availability.  Some homeowners choose hard maple yet there is greater likelihood of humidity causing the wood to move slightly.

MDF & Cabinetry

The frames and end faces can be built from medium density fiberboard (MDF).  It can also be used for door panels, however it can be difficult to finish.  Due to the difficulty to finish MDF other varieties of wood are preferred for stiles and rails. MDF is used for larger sections as it is dimensionally stable. Other options for larger sections are birch plywood and prefinished plywood.

Which Woods Are Best For Paint-Grade Kitchen Cabinet Doors?

Here is a brief summary of our experience with the various paint-grade woods. Like just about everything in life the world is full of opinions, yet there is some consensus on which are the best types of wood that is best for painted cabinets.  Wood that is tight grained but also workable produce long lasting durable cabinet doors. Whichever wood is preferred just about everyone agrees that the surface of the wood needs to be prepared first.  This is done by applying shellac and filler to knots and rough spots so there isn’t any bleed through. Sharp corners should also be sanded so they will hold paint better.  Here are some of the types of wood that are best for painted cabinet doors.

  • Poplar, for years has been the paint-grade wood of choice for furniture makers and cabinet shops. It has Soft Maple as a competitor because Poplar tends to be more labor intensive to sand and finish, but Soft Maple is more expensive. Poplar has a tendency to “fuzz-up” during sanding, and if any of the fuzz is missed before painting, it certainly is never missed after painting. Both woods tend to be absorbent and require more sealer or more paint that harder woods. The finish obtained on Poplar and Soft Maple is excellent, and both woods remain the most popular paint-grade woods.
  • Soft Maple rivals Poplar as the wood of choice by Custom Cabinet Shops for their Paint-Grade Cabinet Door jobs. Both are low cost. Both are available over most of the country. It sands easier than Alder and it doesn’t “fuzz-up” like Alder or Poplar while sanding, and it sands faster. It doesn’t absorb sealer quite as much as Poplar and finishes very smooth, and doesn’t telegraph it’s grain through the paint, like Pine.
  • Alder makes a good paintable cabinet door but tends to absorb primer at a high rate and is among the “softer” of the hardwoods. It grows in the Northwest and may not be available in all parts of the country and it is more expensive. Painted Alder is used more in the West, where it is more available, than other parts of the country, and it gives an excellent painted finish look.
  • Pine is available everywhere and is widely painted in furniture applications. It is reasonably inexpensive and is carried by all lumber yards and Big Box Stores. Furniture grade Pine is different from Frame grade Pine, like framing 2×6’s. Frame Grade Pine is typically not kiln dried to the 7-9% moisture levels required of furniture Grade woods. While Pine paints well the prominent grain can “telegraph” its texture through the painted surface, and knots and pitch pockets may bleed through the paint.
  • Birch is an excellent wood for painting and is starting to be carried by the Big Box Stores. Birch plywood is also available as 9-ply in 5’x5′ and 4’x8′ sheets. Birch is harder than Alder, Pine, and Soft Maple, so it will stand up better to “Kid abuse” than the softer woods. It does tend to be more expensive but will require less sealer or primer than the softer woods.
  • Hard Maple is the best wood available for paint-grade cabinet doors. Unfortunately, It’s also the most expensive of the paint-grade woods costing about 2 1/2 times the price of Soft Maple. Because “color” is not an inspection criteria under the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA), heartwood and mineral are not considered defects and lumber buyers purchasing the highest grades still receive some of this off-color maple. Because of this, cabinet door manufacturers often have Hard Maple with dark heartwood, or mineral streaks, which they have sorted out. Custom Cabinet Shops that purchase our doors depend on the cabinet doors for the overall appearance of their cabinets, so door manufactures cannot use this off-color Hard Maple for Select Maple Cabinet Doors. If we have a sufficient stock, we will use this off-color Hard Maple for our Paint Grade doors if it is requested by the customer, and we will make the substitution at no additional cost. When painted, off-color Hard Maple requires less primer, sands smoother, and is significantly harder that any of the standard paint-grade woods we offer.
  • Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) is an engineered wood product formed by breaking down hardwood or softwood residuals into wood fibers. MDF is used as the panel in all of our Recessed Panel Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors, and is used as the Raised Panel in some of our Raised Panel doors. MDF paints well and it is a good idea to coat all sides of the finished piece in order to seal in the urea-formaldehyde. Formaldehyde resins are commonly used to bind MDF together, and testing has consistently revealed that MDF products emit urea-formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds that pose health risks at sufficient concentrations, for at least several months after manufacture. Most cabinet and furniture manufacturers have been using MDF for several decades and the risks of Formaldehyde resin emissions, when the products are painted is considered negligible.

Thank you for reading “Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors – Which Woods Paint Best & Which Woods To Avoid?”. Stay tuned for more from the expert cabinet door manufacturers at CabinetDoors.Com. Return to CabinetDoors.Com/Blog

Visit the Cabinetdoors.com website to get cabinet door prices.

Cabinet Door Replacement Costs 2018

Cabinet Door Replacement Costs

When doing home improvements or remodeling the cost is a part of budgeting.  Two of the most popular remodeling projects are the kitchen and bathroom, both of which typically have cabinetry.  So, a lot of people are wondering, what are cabinet door replacement costs in 2018.

How Much Does it Cost To Replace Cabinet Doors?

All costs are calculated as an average cost between door styles and for average door sizes.  Some door styles, wood species, and larger sizes will add cost.  The average cost of replacement cabinet doors is $35.00, depending on if you order online or pay more at retail stores.

Cabinet Door Replacement Cost at The Door Stop

The cost of cabinet doors depends on the type of wood you select and the size you need.  All replacement cabinet door orders are custom made to the sizes you specify.  An example of the cost of a cabinet door replacement is the Adobe Cabinet Door in Oak, measuring 10 inches wide and 21 ½ inches high.  This cabinet door replacement cost is $18.66 per cabinet door.

Cabinet Door Replacement Cost at Retail Stores

If you head to some of the popular hardware and home improvement centers you can expect to pay about $50.00 per cabinet door.  There will be some that are cheaper and some that are more based on the style, size, and finish of the cabinet door replacement you choose.

Cabinet Door Replacement Labor Cost

You have a choice when replacing cabinet doors on if you install them yourself, or if you choose to have a professional come and do it for you.  If you hire a professional they will measure, source the cabinet doors, get the hinges, and then install them for you.  Single cabinet door replacement averages around $182 dollars.

The Door Stop is proud to offer detailed text and videos on how to measure, order, and install replacement cabinet doors.  This gives you as a homeowner the ability to order your doors online to save money and save even more installing them yourself!

Potential Cabinet Door Replacement Costs

There are a number of costs that could be part of cabinet door or cabinetry replacement.  When remodeling your home, kitchen, or bathroom it is common to find hard to see damage that needs repairs.  Plan a little extra in remodeling budgets if your project to cover potential unforeseeable costs.

Some of the costs to budget for include:

  • Costs for relocating, modifying, or removing cabinetry. In addition of you’re moving a sink, range, oven, or OTR microwave there will be higher costs involved.
  • Costs for repairing damage discovered during remodeling or replacing cabinet elements. If you find frame damage, water damage, mildew or mold it should be fixed before proceeding with your project.
  • Costs related to hiring skilled craftsmen to come and install the doors for you. If you hire a general contractor you can estimate adding about 20% to your overall cabinet door replacement budget.
  • Costs related to inspections or permits that may be needed for more involved remodeling.
  • Cost of sales tax on supplies and materials.

Save 30% Or More Ordering Replacement Cabinet Doors Online

When you compare the cost of replacing cabinet doors between buying online and paying more at local home improvement centers, the choice is clear!  The Door Stop is proud to offer the highest quality replacement cabinet doors at the best prices.  We sell straight to homeowners and the public at prices only enjoyed by distributors.  You get the replacement cabinet doors you want without having to pay their markup!

How To Make Shaker Cabinet Doors

How To Make Shaker Cabinet Doors

If you are looking for how to make Shaker cabinet doors, this guide should help! We have also included a video version of this post as well.

Shaker Cabinet Doors are among the most popular cabinet door designs, precisely because they are simple.

They are simple in appearance and simple to make, with minimal woodworking equipment.

The steps in making Shaker Cabinet Doors are the same whether using a basic Table Saw, or modern Moulders and computerized assembly equipment.

How To Make Shaker Cabinet Doors Step-By-Step

Read the steps below to learn how to make shaker cabinet doors yourself.  Always use all safety features of your power tools, safety goggles, and make safety priority #1!

Step #1. is ripping the frame stock to the desired width.

A handyman can accomplish this step on a Table Saw to an accuracy of 1/32-inch.

Although the Cabinet Door manufacturing factory produces frame stock at far greater accuracy, the Table Saw will achieve results acceptable to non professionals.

Step #2. consists of Coping the ends of the Rails to connect with the Stiles.

Coping Shaker Rails with a Table Saw has been the common method since the 1800’s, and is still the most common Handyman method used today. While this method lacks accuracy and is not considered safe for the saw operator, it usually produces a reliable joint

Manufacturing factories don’t use the table saw to cope the rails. Factories use specialized coping equipment with accuracy far exceeding table saws, and capable of insuring operator safety.

Step #3. is cutting the cabinet door’s panel to the required size.

Again, a Table can cut the panel with acceptable results.

Cabinet Door Manufacturers will cut the panel with greater accuracy and will also sand the panel before the door is assembled.

Step #4. consists of the assembly of the Shaker Door components.

The handyman assembles his Shaker Cabinet Doors with clamps to hold the door together while the glue sets. Assuring that the door is exactly square is difficult with this method.

The factory uses automated Cabinet Door clamping machines that guarantee the door is perfectly square.

Step #5 is machining the edge on the outside of the assembled cabinet door.

The handyman uses a hand router for edging.

The factory uses large wood shapers with power-feeders to produce an outside edge that is both even and smooth.

Step #6 is the sanding of the assembled and edged Shaker Cabinet Door.

A handyman will use a power disk-sander, or probably simply sanding the frame with a sanding-block

Sanding in the factory consists of passing the assembled door through a series of multi-head wide-belt sanders, each with successively finer belts. Final sanding utilizes a modern rotating-brush sander, which assures a uniform finish that will accept paint or stain evenly.

Other Ways To Make Shaker Style Cabinet Doors

There are alternate ways to make your shaker cabinet doors for your kitchen.  Read through the following tips and instructions on how to make your own cabinet doos, or get in touch with The Door Stop for professionally made shaker cabinet doors shipped straight to you at manufacture pricing!

Using Beadboard Panels to Build Shaker Style Cabinet Doors

The process of building a custom cabinet can appear to be complicated, more so when considering the drawer and door fronts. Although, when basic instructions, building cabinet drawers and doors are not that challenging. This article will guide you through ow to build Shaker Style Cabinet Doors. The shaker style door is simple to create using basic tools around the shop, such as a router, miter saw, and table saw.

Shaker Style

Shaker style cabinetry covers several areas. Although, generally many will admire Shaker furniture because it is innovative joinery, simple, but functional and quality. Shaker doors generally have a plain rectangular rail and stile with a type of plain flat panel. Normally, stiles and rails are attached together with tenon with grooved details. Grooves of stiles allows the tenon on rail endings and holds the panels.

Panel and Frame Construction

Creating a simple panel and frame cabinet door is rather simple, and the best part is that you can do it on either a router or table saw. This article will cover how to build shaker style cabinet doors with a basic table saw. Although, you can create the grooves for tenons using a router saw as well.

To create the panel and frame cabinet doors you are going to need to create two rails, two stiles, and a single panel for each door. Stiles will run the entire height of the cabinet door, and rails run between the length of the stiles.

Sizing the Cabinet Doors

When it comes to the cabinet door size, there are many factors to consider, including the type of overlay, single or paired doors, and hinge type. In this example, we will use a blum ¾” overlay hinge. Additionally, a paired door will be used, meaning one door is not an overlay.

Therefore, for this example we will take the cabinets overallvertical opening and add another ¾” to the bottom and top for the stile height. Calculating he rail lengths can be harder, but taking the total door width (open width and overlay on one or two sides. If using paired doors, subtract 1/16”). Then, subtract the width of both stiles. That will be your finished length for the exposed rail, but length will be added for the tenons on either side. This ensure the length will be long enough after cutting the tenons.

Building Cabinet Door Stiles

The cabinet doors in this example uses 2” wide stiles with a thickness of 3/4”. First, you are going to need to rip the stiles down to be 2” wide. Then, cut the stiles to the correct length. It is suggested to use stopping blocks so each wood piece has identical lengths.

The following step requires cutting out a dado along a long dado. The dado’s width needs to match the door panel thickness. In this example, a ¼” thick MDF beadboard is used. For cutting the dado, we will set up the dado set stack from Delta to be ¼” wide with a 0.020” thin shim. The shim allows the panel to properly slide inside of the dado while preventing buckling.

Building Cabinet Door Rails

The following step is to rip an additional material 2” wide to be used for the rails. They should be cut to needed length, which is the length of tenons and exposed length. Once rails have been cut, use a tenoning jig for cutting the tenon shoulders.

Tip: When cutting rails, cut extras, including dados. These extras can be used for fine tuning tenons to fit correcting.

Once you make the shoulder cuts using the tenoning jig, you will need to set the miter gauge for trimming extra material from the shoulder. The Incra Miter Gauge has a stop built-in so you get an accurate cut each time.

Cabinet Door Panels

Door panels are among the easiest section to tackle. In this project, a 1/4” MDF beadboard will be used. The panels may be simply plain, or a more complicated designed based on what you want. Door panels are cut the width and height of the door frame opening, plus an addition depth of 1/16” for the dado. As the dado in this project are ½” in depth, the panel will be 7/8” taller and wider, so both sides being 7/16”.

Assemble Cabinet Door Frames

When taking the time to properly cut the tenons accurately, door frame rails should fit like a glove. Simply apply quality glue to the tenons, along with the dado where they will join. If you are painting the doors, you may want to use a urethane glue as its stronger. Note: Do not place glue on the door panel or the door will not ‘float’ correctly, in addition it won’t be subjected to the stress of expanding and shrinking of the wooden door frame.

When assembling the door frame, ensure that the door panel is inserted into the dado around the stiles and rails Using clamps, apply pressure on joints while ensuring the door is properly square prior to letting it dry.

Purchasing Shaker Cabinet Doors

If you are looking to purchase Shaker Cabinet Doors, you can do so on our main cabinet door website cabinetdoors.com or give us a call at 800-342-1010 for custom orders.  We offer over 300 styles of cabinet doors including popular shaker cabinet doors.  Save 50% over buying retail and order direct from the manufacturer by ordering from The Door Stop.

How Mitered and Cope & Stick Cabinet Doors are made, and the differences between the two designs.


How Mitered and Cope & Stick Cabinet Doors are made, and the differences between the two designs.

Our sister website, Cabinetdoorfactory, offers deep discount cabinet doors on the most popular cabinet door styles.

http://www.cabinetdoors.com
Manufacturer of custom cabinet doors in hundreds of styles and 14 wood types.

Cabinet door

Hi there, my name is Brady Hill.
Thanks for choosing Cabinetdoors.com.
We appreciate your business and your time.
So, don’t worry. I won’t take much of it.

This video will show the way around our website and give you some tips to make your cabinet door search both easier and faster. Continue reading

Custom cabinet doors

Cabinets are made in every possible width and height, so cabinet doors must be made in every possible width and height to fit the cabinets.

The almost infinite size range of cabinets created the need for Custom Cabinet Doors and this need has only increased over time. Continue reading

How Mitered Cabinet Doors are made

This video shows many of our replacement kitchen cabinet doors.

One of our computerized machines, shown at top-left, cuts the perfect 45-degree miter and routes the mortise and tenon for our invisible, industry-leading mitered door joining method.

At bottom-right we demonstrate the assembly of this joint and show how the invisible mortise and tenon produce the tightest and strongest mitered assembly method in the industry.

All mitered cabinet door manufactures will eventually be using this method but, as of January 2016, we are the only manufacturer offering mitered doors online with this level of manufacturing quality.

A few of the kitchen cabinet door styles we manufacture can be seen as these doors move past. Several stop and expand and those doors are mentioned by door name.

The first of these doors is the Woodhaven, at top-left. This cabinet door is shown in Red Oak.

Next is our Vermont door, shown in Select Alder.

The Vermont is followed by our Manhattan door, in Select Maple.

Next is our Camden, shown in Alder and finished with Minwax Stain.

Our Bellingham, shown in Maple is an applied Moulding cabinet door.

The Delaware cabinet door is shown in Alder.

This Ponderosa door is also shown in Alder, which is very similar to Cherry in appearance.

Next is our Sheffield cabinet door shown in Maple (sometimes called hard-rock maple).

Our Malibu door is of Hickory and some call the color variations in hickory “Calico Hickory”.

And this Danish kitchen cabinet door features the simple, uncluttered look of its sister door, the Cope & Stick Shaker door.

Each of our replacement kitchen cabinet doors in the Mitered styles are available in all woods and in any custom sizes above the minimums.

Shaker Cabinet Doors

Shaker furniture is a distinctive style of furniture developed by the United Society of Believers in Christ’s Second Appearing, commonly known as Shakers, a religious sect that had guiding principles of simplicity, utility and honesty. Their beliefs were reflected in the well-made furniture of minimalist designs. (Quoted from Wikipedia)

Shaker communities were largely self-sufficient: in their attempt to separate themselves from the outside world and to create a heaven-on-earth, members grew their own food, constructed their own buildings, and manufactured their own tools and household furnishings. (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Shaker Furniture was made thoughtfully, with functional form and proportion, rather than using ornamentation. Simple and functional were their driving principles 200 years ago and, although the Shaker community disbanded in 1959, their style of simple design is still popular today.

At Cabinetdoors.com we have been manufacturing Shaker Cabinet Doors since 1980 and we have made millions of Shaker doors in those 36 years.

This screencast shows one process of locating the Shaker Cabinet Door through our Most Popular Cabinet Doors link.

This product page lists some facts about the Shaker like the minimum sizes, the finished thickness, and the width of the Stiles and Rails.

By clicking the Drop-down menu for Wood Types you can see the price per square foot of the Shaker in many different woods. Selecting one of those wood types will allow you to enter quantity and sizes and price the Shaker door in the size you entered.

After you have selected wood type and entered sizes, clicking Add-To-Cart will add that door to your shopping cart. The cart and it’s contents can be seen above the order box.

When you have finished adding all your doors to the cart, clicking Checkout completes your order.

Registering with the website gives us your delivery address so we can show you the total including all shipping charges.

That’s all there is to it. Your order will be manufactured in our Arizona factory and shipped to your home or business in 7-to-10 days.

Kitchen Cabinet Doors: How to choose replacements

Kitchen Cabinet Doors: How to choose replacements

Kitchen Cabinet Refacing by replacing existing cabinet doors with new doors has become a very popular alternative to buying and installing new cabinets.

Refacing kitchen cabinets with new doors will save over 50% off the cost of new cabinets, and can be done in less than half the time.

This video explains your choices in replacement cabinet doors, how to determine the cost of new doors, how to measure cabinet openings to order cabinet doors of the correct sizes, and how to order replacement cabinet doors online and factory-direct at 30% savings off the Big-Box stores.

We start exploring the cabinet door choices by visiting the CabinetDoors.Com website.
The various categories of cabinet doors can be browsed by expanding the Categories box at left.
Clicking the Cabinet Doors group expands to show other sub-categories. These can be further expanded by clicking.
Another way to explore the various groups is to click the category pictures in the center of the page.

Clicking the “Most Popular Doors” picture opens a page showing pictures of the most popular cabinet doors.
As an example, we’ll click the Delaware door picture.
By scrolling down to the Order Box, the Delaware door can be ordered in any wood and in any size and quantity. Once the size in entered the price is shown for that door.
Just fill in the information and continue adding doors to your cart.

When your order is complete click Checkout and follow the instructions to place your order.

If you have any questions about how to determine the correct sizes of your replacement cabinet doors please watch the titles “How to measure for new Cabinet Doors” in the upper-left column of the webpage.

You can be confident that you will receive the same superior quality cabinet doors we supply to custom cabinet makers and luxury home builders in all 50 states.

CabinetDoors.Com is the leading manufacturer of cabinet doors offering our products online, and with over 35 years in business and a Better Business Bureau rating of A+.

http://www.cabinetdoors.com
Manufacturer of custom cabinet doors in hundreds of styles and 14 wood types.

We have been making unfinished cabinet doors since 1980.

We utilize modern computerized machinery and have made over 10 million cabinet doors for new homes in Canada, Mexico, and the United States.

We make both Mitered and Traditional Cope & Stick cabinet doors for new homes and re-modelers, as well as home-owners.

We make replacement cabinet doors in both arched and square designs and in over 300 different door styles.

Kitchen Cabinet Refacing with new cabinet doors

Kitchen Cabinet Refacing with new cabinet doors

Refacing kitchen cabinets with new cabinet doors has become a very popular alternative to buying and installing all-new cabinets.

Refacing usually saves over 50% off the cost of new cabinets, and can be done in less than half the time.

Your choices in replacement cabinet doors are covered in this video as well as how to determine the cost of new doors, how to measure cabinet openings to order cabinet doors of the correct sizes, and how to order replacement cabinet doors online.

You can explore the cabinet door choices on our website, CabinetDoors.Com.
The cabinet doors we manufacture can be browsed by expanding the Categories box at left.
Clicking the “Cabinet Doors” group expands the window to show other sub-categories. These can be expanded even further by clicking each subgroup.
Another way to explore the various groups is to click the category pictures in the center of the home page.

For instance clicking the “Most Popular Doors” picture opens a page showing pictures of all the doors in the most popular cabinet doors group.
As an example, we’ll click the Shaker Cabinet Door picture.
By scrolling down to the Order Box, the Shaker Cabinet Door can be ordered in any wood and in any size and quantity. Once the size in entered the price is shown for that door.
Just fill in the information and continue adding doors to your cart.

When your order is complete you can place the order by clicking Checkout and following the instructions.

Determining the correct sizes of your replacement cabinet doors is covered in the “How to measure for new Cabinet Doors” video located in the upper-left column of the webpage.

You will receive the same high-quality cabinet doors we supply to custom cabinet makers and luxury home builders in all 50 states.

CabinetDoors.Com manufacturers all our doors in Arizona, and is the leading manufacturer of cabinet doors offering our products online. We have been in business over 35 years in business and have a Better Business Bureau rating of A+.

Glass Frame Cabinet Doors…How they are made, how to order, and how the frame is machined to allow glass to be easily installed

This video explains how glass frames are made as well as how to order them online and how the frame is machined to allow glass to be easily installed.

If video above doesn’t open, Click here for the video…

This video will explain the difference between standard cabinet doors and Glass Ready cabinet doors. Continue reading

How to order cabinet doors online and factory-direct from CabinetDoors.Com


Click here for the video…

This one-minute video will explain the process of ordering cabinet doors online from CabinetDoors.Com.

To select the cabinet door you want, click on the category containing that particular style of door.

For instance, the Mitered door category contains all of the Mitered Cabinet Doors we manufacture.

Clicking on the pictures of the other categories will open pages showing the doors in those respective groups.

This example will view, select, price and order our popular Shaker Cabinet Door in any wood type.

We’ll get started by clicking the Cope & Stick Inset Panel category and scrolling down to see the Shaker Door.

Clicking the Shaker picture opens the product page for that door.

Scrolling down to the order box displays a menu with the wood types available for this door style.

Clicking the down-arrow in the Select Wood Specie will show those woods and the price per square foot for the Shaker door in each of those woods.

To order the Shaker door simply click the wood, then enter the quantity, width and height.

Click Add to Cart, then repeat the process for each door you need for your project.

When all your doors have been added to your shopping cart, click checkout.

If you haven’t yet registered, you will be asked to do so at this time. Registering asks for your delivery address and an email address so we can confirm your purchase, resolve and questions we may have about your order, and calculate the exact shipping cost to your address.

The Cabinet Door Factory is our low-price website for saving money on Replacing Cabinet Doors.

Best woods to use in Cabinet Doors Part-1 With Video


This video covers the woods most often used for cabinet doors, and can be seen by clicking here.

The first four of these most popular woods are Alder, Oak, Maple, and Paint Grade.

Alder
Alder grows in Oregon, Washington and into British Columbia. Although Alder is classified as a hardwood it is softer than Oak and Maple.

Alder use is more common in the western states but is becoming more popular and more available in the central and eastern states.

Red Alder tends to be a light tan to reddish brown and there is no visible distinction between heartwood and sapwood. The overall grain pattern and appearance is similar to Birch, though slightly redder than Birch

Alders grain is generally straight, with a moderately fine, uniform texture.

It has excellent finishing properties but care is needed when staining. Like Maple, Alder requires proper wood sealing to prevent a blotchy finish. It is becoming very popular in the cabinet industry.

Oak
The Oaks are divided into Red Oaks and White Oaks. The names don’t indicate color as the White Oaks tend to be grayer in color, while the Red Oaks vary from reddish brown to wheat color. White oak is commonly used in whisky barrels, wet environments, and cargo truck flooring while Red Oaks are used in furniture and cabinets.

The heartwood in Red Oak is a light to medium brown, commonly with a reddish cast. Sapwood is nearly white to light brown, depending mainly on the growth region.

Red Oak is sub-divided into three growing regions; Southern, Appalachian, and Northern. Because of the climate the southern oaks grow the fastest and the northern oaks the slowest. The slower growth and cooler climate makes the northern oaks superior as a furniture wood.

We use the best-of-the-best Red Oak which is sustainably grown in the private forests of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and northern Wisconsin, and color-sorted to our specifications.

Maple
Unlike most other hardwoods, the sapwood of Hard Maple lumber is most commonly used rather than its heartwood. Sapwood color ranges from nearly white, to an off-white cream color. Our Select Maple is color-sorted and only the white sapwood is used in our cabinet doors.
The heartwood tends to be a darker reddish brown and is seldom used in cabinets.

The grain in Maple is generally straight, with a fine, even texture.

Maple finishes to an attractive light color with polyurethane alone. Because Maple is a tight, closed grain wood, it requires experience to stain without looking blotchy.

Visit our website to vies, price, and order hundreds of Cabinet Door styles online.

What is a Mitered Cabinet Door and how are they made?

As I explained in the post “What is a Cope and Stick Cabinet Door and How are They Made?”, there are two major categories of Cabinet Doors. These are Solid Slab, or plank doors, and 5-piece doors.

The Slab door is simply several boards edge-glued and trimmed to the desired size.

5-piece cabinet doors are divided into two design categories; Cope and Stick and Mitered.

The 5-piece door is more complex but more reliable and more pleasing in appearance. This is especially true with Mitered doors which offer more moulding choices than Cope and Stick designs.

This post is focused on the Mitered, 5-piece cabinet door.

The drawing below shows a Cope and Stick Cabinet Door and Drawer Front on the left and a Mitered Cabinet Door and Drawer Front on the right. The differences are in the corners and the method of joining the parts of the frame.
The Mitered door has the frame joined at a 45-degree angle while the Cope and Stick door frame is connected at a 90-degree angle.

The five pieces in a Mitered door are the four parts of the frame, called Stiles and Rails. The Stiles are the vertical pieces, or sides of the frame and the Rails are the top and bottom pieces. The fifth piece of the 5-piece door is the panel, which the frame surrounds.

The reason the 5-piece door is more reliable than the Slab door is in the way each design responds to changes in relative humidity.

All woods will expand as humidity increases, and as humidity decreases they will contract. An average width Slab Cabinet Door, being between 14 and 20 inches wide, will expand and contract with humidity cycles over the year by as much as three-sixteenths-inches. Some wood types react more and some less, but three-sixteenths-inches is typical for a Slab door.

While this may not sound like much, it is enough to prevent butt-door pairs from closing during high humidity times and cause a gap between the butt doors of one-half inch in low humidity times.

Here is where the 5-piece design comes to the rescue.

In the 5-piece door the panel is allowed to float within the frame, so during panel expansion the panel edges simply move deeper into the Stiles and during contraction the panel slightly pulls back. The Mitered door is designed with a groove for in the stiles so panel movement is accepted without being noticed.

The top drawing shows an end-view of the stile with a contracted wood (low humidity) panel, while the drawing below shows a humidity-expanded panel. Notice that the panel still reacts dimensionally with changes in humidity but in the 5-piece door this panel movement is absorbed by the groove in the stiles. This design keeps the overall width of the door constant as the relative humidity fluctuates.

With Mitered doors there are several joining methods used across the industry. The newer methods using computerized machinery are more reliable and far more accurate. The blind mortise and tenon method produces an invisible joint that is both stronger and more resistant moisture than earlier joining methods. An example of this blind joint is pictured below.

Mitered Cabinet Door Joint

 

Blind Mortise and Tenon Mitered Cabinet Door Joint 

 

Shop For: Mitered Cabinet Doors

How to prevent damage to unfinished cabinet doors prior to finishing

All unfinished wood products are completely unprotected from damage caused by warping of the wood and splitting from the end-grain.

This warping and splitting is very likely to occur with swings in relative humidity or temperature on any unfinished wood products.

Here are a few tips on how to minimize or prevent these problems when the wood products cannot be properly finished upon delivery.

As soon as possible after delivery, place your new cabinet doors in a temperature controlled space away from direct sunlight.

Make sure that air can circulate all around each door. If the doors are stacked one on top of the other, air will only circulate over the exposed surface of the top door which will allow moisture gain or loss only from that exposed surface. This will cause a moisture mismatch between the face and back of that door, and cause it to warp. If the humidity change is large, end-grain cracking is also likely to occur.

It’s best to avoid stacking the unfinished doors and instead, stand them up and lean them against another surface allowing air to circulate freely around the front and back of each door. This will allow the same level of humidity on both front and back of each door and warping will be prevented.

These precautions will minimize warping problems for a few days but for longer term protection proper sealing and finishing will be necessary.

Some cabinet door finishing tips are available at the CabinetDoors.Com blog.

Cabinetdoors.com is oldest and largest manufacturer of cabinet doors online with over 35 years of experience shipping all across America.

Cabinet Door Replacement: The steps from ordering to job completion (long post)

Now that you have made the decision to remodel or reface your kitchen, there are a few steps critical to realizing your goal of making the kitchen the show-place of your home.

Cabinet Door Replacement: The steps from ordering to job completion.

Now that you have made the decision to remodel or reface your kitchen, there are a few steps critical to realizing your goal of making the kitchen the show-place of your home.

An outline of these steps follow and are explained in detail below the outline.
1. Determine whether you want stained or painted cabinets and doors.
2. Select the replacement cabinet door style.
3. Select the wood type for your project.
4. Measure your cabinet openings and calculate the door and drawer front sizes.
5. Select the manufacturer and order your new cabinet doors and drawer fronts.
6. Prepare the cabinet boxes for the new finish.
7. Finish your new doors and fronts to match your refinished cabinet boxes.
8. Hang the new doors and attach the new drawer fronts.

Now, lets go into detail on each of these points.

1. Determine whether you want stained or painted cabinets and doors.
The decision on whether to re-stain or paint has two factors. Removing existing stain and lacquer requires several steps and is more time-consuming than prepping the cabinet boxes to be painted.
This is really a personal opinion issue and it all comes down to a trade-off between the look you are after, the time you are willing to spend, and the amount you wish to spend.
2. Select the replacement cabinet door style.
This step is actually fairly quick and easy. A visit to the local Home Depot will give you an idea of the door types available. For a larger selection Google cabinet door manufactures. The Google search will return mostly websites operated by resellers or middlemen, but you will see a few actual factory-direct manufacturers.
The oldest web supplier, and one of the largest cabinet door manufacturers in America is CabinetDoors.Com.
The factory-direct web suppliers will save you from 30% to 50% off the retail chains and offer much quicker delivery. Keep in mind that the retail chains don’t make the doors they sell, they buy them from the same manufacturers you will find on the internet, increase the price, and sell them to you.
Another step in the door selection process is to select the hinges you will use. Modern hinges are a world apart from the hinges of yesterday. Most are hidden and well made, with a few actually made in America. The Blum line of hinges are made in America and are used by the majority of Custom Cabinet Makers across the country.
The advantage of selecting the hinges while ordering the cabinet doors is that you can have the new doors bored for the hinges and avoid the danger of a drilling error. The web manufacturer will also offer the hinges at a comparable price as the retail chains, but give you a higher quality hinge made in America.

3. Select the wood type for your project.
If you are staining the doors you will want the doors made of the same wood as your cabinets. So the stained boxes and the stained doors will match.
If you are painting then order the cabinet doors in Paint-Grade. Paint-Grade doors will be made of materials that take paint best. Usually this means the doors frame will be made of Poplar and the doors panel will be made of Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF).
MDF paints well and is more dimensionally stable than wood, so it is less affected by humidity swings. Because MDF is slightly brittle it is not usually used to make the doors frames, but for the panels it is superior.
A little information about staining difficult woods might help avoid some problems. Maple and Alder are not easy woods to stain because these woods have variable density across each board. This variable density causes the less dense areas to absorb more stain than the harder areas causing a blotched look. Although it is beyond the scope of this article to cover wood dyes, those wishing to stain Maple would be wise to research wood dyes.

4. Measure your cabinet openings and calculate the door and drawer front sizes.
When measuring for new or replacement kitchen cabinet doors, the type of hinge you intend to use will influence the door sizes.
If you plan to use your existing hinges simply measure your existing cabinet doors and order doors of the same sizes. Be sure to order your doors with an outside edge that your existing hinges will fit. If you wish to have us supply the hinges we will insure that the hinges you receive will fit the doors you order.
If you plan to use our Top-Quality, Blum Inserta, Clip-top hinges with 1/2-inch overlay, your hinges will ship with your order.

To insure your new doors are perfectly sized for use with our hinges, the door size measurements are figured as follows:
On single doors simply measure the cabinet’s opening size and add 1-inch to both the width and height. For instance, if the cabinet opening size is 12-inches wide and 24-inches high, the door size will be 13 x 25.

On wider cabinets with two doors (butting in the center), measure the width of the opening, add 1-inch, then divide by 2.
Height is figured the same as for single doors. Just add 1-inch to the opening.
For instance, if the opening is 28 inches wide and 30 inches high, each door width would be 28 + 1 = 29 divided by 2 = 14 1/2-inches wide.

Our Blum hinges have plus/minus 2 millimeters of adjustment which will allow enough side adjustment to have a gap of up to 1/8-inch between the butting doors. If you live in a high humidity climate you may want to subtract an additional 1/16″ from the width of your Butt Doors.

So, don’t be intimidated into thinking it’s difficult to figure door sized from openings. Just take the measurements and order the door style of your choice…of give us a call and we’ll talk you through the entire process.

5. Select the manufacturer and order your new cabinet doors and drawer fronts.
The internet has made it possible to find sources for the do-it-yourself re-modeler to buy custom sizes of cabinet doors.

The majority of Cabinet Door Websites don’t actually make the doors they sell, and because they need to make a profit, they price the doors on their website higher than you will pay if you can find the actual manufacturer.

Way back in the mid 1990′s Western Cabinet Doors, Inc launched the first website offering custom sized cabinet doors on the internet. Western Cabinet Doors is a large manufacturer of Cabinet Doors, supplying hundreds of styles of doors to thousands of Home Builders, Custom Cabinet Shops, and Furniture Manufactures across the United States.

Today you can purchase their products on CabinetDoors.Com and choose from hundreds of door styles in dozens of wood types. You cab browse all the cabinet door possibilities and price your new doors by entering your custom sizes and choosing your wood. Even the cost of Fedex shipping to your home is shown before you enter your credit card.

Compare the prices of other websites and the big-box stores to ours. Not only will you save 30% to 50% but you will get the same quality and guarantee we supply to luxury home builders across the country.

Our quality is superior, our product is made in the United States, and our production time is between 7-and-10 days.

Whether you want traditional cabinet doors, mitered doors, Raised Panel doors, or specialty doors, we make the largest selection in the industry and we have been supplying thousands of users for over 35 years.

Cabinetdoors.com is not just a website re-marketing cabinet doors, we are the manufacturer and we stand behind our product.

6. Prepare the cabinet boxes for the new finish.
Cleaning, sanding, and painting:
While painting existing cabinets is much easier and faster than staining, there are still some critical steps that are necessary to obtaining a professional finish.
Here are some tried and true rules of thumb that relate to painting Kitchen Cabinet Doors.

* The first is the “prep-prep-prep” rule. That means that every hour spent preparing the cabinet box or cabinet door for painting saves two hours in repainting.

* The second is the 5-F’s rule. This rule is “Fine Finishers Finish Firewood First”. It simply means that experimenting with your finish on scrap wood can prevent ruining a door with a failed finishing attempt.

* The third is always break all sharp edges with fine sandpaper before painting. Sharp edges will not hold paint and will give the dried paint an unpainted spot to absorb moisture.

* The forth is to keep in mind that all wood types will expand and contract with changes in humidity. The paint will slow these humidity-caused wood movements, but no paint is totally moisture-proof, and paint will not stop the movements. This humidity-movement of wood presents another potential issue for the painted cabinet door. When the paint dries, it will no longer have the elasticity to move with the wood; so it will crack, usually along the glue joints where the Stiles & Rails join.

* The fifth relates to the hardness of the paint-grade wood. The softer the wood, the more easily it will dent, if hit with a pot or frying pan. The dent in the wood may be slight and hardly noticeable, but dried paint doesn’t dent without cracking. The weakest link in any painted cabinet door is not the door. Regardless of the wood type used, the weakest link is always the paint.

* The sixth practice covers the method of application of the paint. The desired look from painting a cabinet door is usually a high gloss finish, similar to the finish on a piano. A finish of this quality will certainly require a highly experienced finishing professional, and a dust-free spray booth. This doesn’t mean you can’t achieve an excellent finish, but it does mean you won’t get this piano-finish with a paint brush in your driveway. To get a professional looking finish you will need to spray-on the paint. Not from a Krylon can, but from an compressed-air, or airless, spray painting system.

Now for the step-by-step process I’ve learned through years of both success and a few failures.

 

Lets get started by working through the process step-by-step.

This process covers both the cabinet boxes and the cabinet doors. Because the doors are more critical these instructions focus mostly on doors, but apply to the boxes as well.
Lay the door on a flat surface and lightly sand the door with a flexible-foam sanding sponge (I like the 3M sanding block sponges best) or 220-grit sandpaper. Be sure to sand “with the wood grain” on the front, back, and sides.

Remove any residual grit with a clean cloth (tack cloth is best) or a vacuum.

Next comes what is probably the most important step in the entire process. Sealing and priming the wood.

The priming coat, is also called a sealing coat, or a Sealing indicating coat. These are essentially the same thing. It’s purpose is to seal the wood so that the final paint will adhere evenly and also make it easy to spot uneven areas in the wood while it’s still easy to correct the blemish. Primer can be applied by brush or roller. I like to use a roller for the bigger areas followed by a good quality brush for smoothing and painting the finer details on the cabinet doors. You won’t need the $25 brush but don’t get the $1 brush either. Expect to pay $6-$10 for a good, fine-bristle brush. Try not to get paint all over the brush, dipping only about 1/2″ to 1″ into the paint is best. Also, between coats you can place the brush in a plastic bag to keep it from drying out, and avoid cleaning it until the end of each day.

Any hardware or paint store will have a wide selection of sealer/primer and paint for your doors. Be sure and match the primer with the paint you plan to use. If you are going to use latex (water based) paint, use a latex primer. If using an oil based paint, use an oil based primer. Also try to use a primer with a drying time of 30 minutes or less. White primer works best because it will show the uneven areas of the door better. This allows you to spot (and correct) the areas that need filling before painting.

Once the first coat of primer is dry you will be able to see some small, uneven areas, scratches, or dents in the wood. Now it’s time for the filler. This is the most important step in obtaining that perfect painted finish.

All hardwoods have voids, which cannot be seen until it is primed. I use a filler to fill all of these spots. The two types of filler I’ve used with success are Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot Putty and Elmer’s Wood Filler Max White. The Bondo putty works best, mainly because it is an orange color than makes it easier to see where you have filled. The Elmer’s is white. Fillers must be sanded smooth after drying and then sealed with primer before painting to prevent the color from bleeding through.

After filling, sand the filled areas (use the 3M sponge to keep your fingers from sanding dips in the filled areas), wipe the dust off, and apply one last primer coat.

When the primer has dried, give the doors a light sanding and wipe them clean of any dust. If the final inspection doesn’t show any unfilled scratches or small voids, you are ready to paint.

Now comes the actual painting, which is actually the easiest phase of the project. But without going through the priming-sanding-filling-priming process, there would be little chance of obtaining a truly great painted cabinet door.

Using the same technique you used with the primer–roller for the large areas, and paint brush to smooth and paint the smaller and detailed areas–apply your paint to the doors.

There is no need to sand between paint coats but it is a good idea to insure there is no dried paint on the brush that could work its way into your finish on the following coats.

Although the finish may look good after one coat of paint, two coats are normally applied to assure durability of the finish. Just follow the directions on your paint (and primer) and follow the drying time recommendations.

Here is a link to the CabinetDoors.Com Blog where you will find several other posts on finding, sizing, ordering, painting, and staining Unfinished Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors.

7. Finish your new doors and fronts to match your refinished cabinet boxes.
Stripping and re-staining:
Because new raw-wood cabinet doors won’t require any stripping and only minimal touch-up sanding, most of the refinishing work is avoided.
To start the staining process I prefer minwax. Minwax makes a good selection of stains which are super easy to apply. Once you have selected your stain choice just follow the directions on the can. Stains are forgiving so don’t worry about a disaster. A tip is to stain the backs of a few drawer fronts first. This allows you to experiment in an area that won’t be seen.
After the staining is completed it’s time to apply the lacquer. Again Minwax offers a large selection. Minwax Polyurethane is a good choice to go over the Minwax stains. Another tip; use the Polyurethane from a can and not the spray cans. The caned Polyurethane covers much better and makes a mush smoother finish.
It’s important when finishing the doors to apply equal Polyurethane to all sides of the doors. Unequal coverage will result in uneven moisture absorption or loss and will contribute to future warping.

8. Hang the new doors and attach the new drawer fronts.
The process of hanging the cabinet doors is actually straight forward. I’ve found it useful to attach a straight piece of wood to the bottom of the cabinet to rest the door on while aligning the hinge mounting bracket for drilling. Just clamp the straight edge so the door bottom will extend 1/2-inch below the cabinet opening. Using a long straight edge will insure all the doors are perfectly aligned.

Here is a useful video showing the hanging of canceled hinge cabinet doors.

Cabinet Doors Phoenix

If you are in the Phoenix area, or anywhere in Arizona, and looking for replacement kitchen cabinet doors, Cabinetdoors.com is the oldest and largest local manufacturer of cabinet doors in the state.

We make hundreds of door styles in any custom sizes you may need, and in any of 14 different wood types. Our 13 most popular door styles can be browsed, priced, and ordered online here.

Each of our cabinet door styles is available in Paint Grade and will be delivered finish-sanded and paint-ready. Pricing starts at under $10 per door for smaller sizes in most door styles.

We are one of the largest employers in Payson, Arizona and own and operate a 30,000 square foot modern manufacturing facility.

All orders under 1,000 doors are completed in under 10-days. We ship daily all over the country, but our trucks deliver daily to the Phoenix area and weekly to Tucson, Flagstaff, and the rest of the state.

We were the first cabinet door manufacturer to offer our products online and our website, cabinetdoors.com, is one of the leading suppliers of cabinet doors in the country.

Next time you are thinking about refacing or remodeling a kitchen, take a look at cabinetdoors.com. Our quality, selection, pricing, and delivery have given us a reputation that is industry leading. Our Better Business Bureau Rating is A+ and our customer satisfaction feedback is over 97%. Follow this link to see our customer feedback and read the customer comments we have received over the past few months.

Browse our website and let us know what you think.

Kitchen Cabinet Doors: Online and Made in America

Refacing your kitchen cabinets with new Cabinet Doors that are Made in America is easier than ever before.

 while there are several websites selling kitchen cabinet doors, very few of those websites actually make the doors they sell. The secret to their web business is that they know who the manufacturers are and have set up drop-shipping agreements with them. They take your order on their website and foreword it to the manufacturer, who fills the order and ships it directly to the buyer. The website owner is the ultimate middleman. He simply adds his profit to the manufacturers and emails your order to the manufacturer.

If the end user could find out who the actual manufacturer was, his costs could be cut by over 30%.

Well, the internet allows end users to place their own orders factory-direct, cut out the middleman’s profit, receive American Made Quality, and save 30% under the big-box retail store price.

When you are ready to compare prices and quality on replacement kitchen cabinet doors, visit the big-box retailer then visit www.cabinetdoors.com. Now you can actually see the middleman and retail markup and you can actually keep those markups yourself.

Cabinetdoors.com is the web sales division of Western Cabinet Doors. A company 35+ years manufacturing cabinet doors and an A+ Better Business Bureau Rating.

Unfinished Cabinet Doors: How and Where to buy

The internet has made it possible to find sources for the do-it-yourself re-modeler to buy unfinished cabinet doors in any size, and do the finishing yourself.

 The majority of Cabinet Door Websites don’t actually make the doors they sell. They take your order and then buy your doors from an actual manufacturer. That middleman type of operation is being replaced by actual manufacturers offering their products factory-direct on the internet.

Because the Custom Cabinet Shops and Home Builders want to offer unlimited color options, they always do the final finishing themselves. So, unfinished doors are what the large manufacturers offer.

That gives the do-it-yourself remodeler an opportunity to save about 50% by finishing the cabinet doors himself.

Way back in the mid 1990’s Western Cabinet Doors, Inc launched the first website offering custom sized unfinished cabinet doors on the internet.

Western Cabinet Doors is a large manufacturer of Cabinet Doors, supplying hundreds of styles of doors to thousands of Home Builders, Custom Cabinet Shops, and Furniture Manufactures across the United States.

Today you can purchase their products on CabinetDoors.Com and choose from hundreds of door styles in dozens of wood types. You can browse all the cabinet door possibilities and price your new doors by entering your custom sizes and choosing your wood. Even the cost of Fedex shipping to your home is shown before you enter your credit card.

Compare the prices of other websites and the big-box stores to ours. Not only will you save 30% to 50% but you will get the same quality and guarantee we supply to luxury home builders across the country.

Our quality is superior, our product is made in the United States, and our production time is between 7-and-10 days.

Whether you want traditional cabinet doors, mitered doors, arched doors, or specialty doors, we make the largest selection in the industry and we have been supplying thousands of users for over 35 years.

Cabinetdoors.com is not just a website re-marketing cabinet doors, we are the manufacturer and we stand behind our product.

Cabinet Doors Online Factory Direct

Cabinet Doors Online: How and Where to buy

The internet has made it possible to find sources for the do-it-yourself re-modeler to buy custom sizes of cabinet doors.

The majority of Cabinet Door Websites don’t actually make the doors they sell, and because they need to make a profit, they price the doors on their website higher than you will pay if you can find the actual manufacturer.

Way back in the mid 1990’s Western Cabinet Doors, Inc launched the first website offering custom sized cabinet doors on the internet. Western Cabinet Doors is a large manufacturer of Cabinet Doors, supplying hundreds of styles of doors to thousands of Home Builders, Custom Cabinet Shops, and Furniture Manufactures across the United States.

Today you can purchase their products on CabinetDoors.Com and choose from hundreds of door styles in dozens of wood types. You cab browse all the cabinet door possibilities and price your new doors by entering your custom sizes and choosing your wood. Even the cost of Fedex shipping to your home is shown before you enter your credit card.

Compare the prices of other websites and the big-box stores to ours. Not only will you save 30% to 50% but you will get the same quality and guarantee we supply to luxury home builders across the country.

Our quality is superior, our product is made in the United States, and our production time is between 7-and-10 days.

Whether you want traditional cabinet doorsmitered doorsRaised Panel doors, or specialty doors, we make the largest selection in the industry and we have been supplying thousands of users for over 35 years.

Cabinetdoors.com
 is not just a website re-marketing cabinet doors, we are the manufacturer and we stand behind our product.

What you need to know before ordering replacement cabinet doors

A few minutes can prevent mistakes in ordering the wrong cabinet doors for your kitchen remodeling project.

#1. Avoid measuring errors.
When you order cabinet doors or drawer fronts be aware that the size you order will be the size you receive.
Because different hinge choices no longer allow for a consistent rule-of-thumb that adds some constant size increase to the cabinet opening size, the buyer needs to order the exact size door required by the hinge design. Different hinges will have different overlay requirements.
If you are ordering hinges along with the doors, the door manufacturer will be able to assist with the door sizing because of his familiarity with the hinges he carries.

#2. You likely have a good idea of the finished look you are after, so you are ready for the “appearance” decisions.
The first decision is between the two major door styles, Cope & Stick and Mitered.
Cope and Stick, or traditional cabinet doors, are the most common and come in square, arched, and double arched styles.
Examples of Cope & Stick doors can be seen here.
Mitered doors are all square but, because of the joining method, allow for an almost unlimited number or frame pattern designs.
Examples of Mitered doors can be seen here.

#3. Also contributing to the overall look of your cabinet doors will be the wood type they are made of.
If you are seeking a painted look, order your new doors in Paint-Grade. Paint Grade doors usually have the frames made from Poplar, Alder, or Maple, and the panels made from MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) or a solid wood like Poplar, Alder, or Maple.
MDF is preferred because it does not react dimensionally to changes in humidity like solid woods.
If you are looking for cabinet doors that can be stained or lacquered and have the look of finished wood, you can choose between almost any wood type. The most popular being Oak, Alder, Maple, Hickory, Birch, Cherry, and Pine. Cabinet doors are also made from these woods with knotty included for a rustic look.
Examples of several woods can be seen here.

There are several sources for new cabinet doors.
Retail outlets like Home Depot and hardware chains have a selection of doors.
These retail outlets tend to have higher prices mainly due to the expense of inventory and salaried sales people.
Another source, made possible by the internet, is factory-direct from the manufacturer.
Manufacturer websites offer several advantages over retail outlets.
The first advantage is price; expect to save 25% to 40% by buying direct.
The second advantage is time of delivery; with no middlemen or distribution warehouses between you and the factory, you will receive your order on about 2-weeks instead of 4-to-6 weeks.
The third advantage in buying factory direst is the selection. While retail stores are limited in what they can stock by space and inventory cost, the manufactured builds each order as it is received.
You are not limited to ordering only the doors the retail chain carries, when buying factory-direct, you can order any door style, not just the styles in the stores catalog.

Keep in mind, the factory that you order from online is often the same factory that the retail chain also orders from.

So if you are likely to be receiving the same cabinet doors, why not order factory direct and choose from a much larger selection, at a 30% lower price, and receive your order in half the time?

Visit the CabinetDoors.Com website and browse the manufacturer with the largest selection on the web.

What you need to know about Replacement Cabinet Doors:

If you are thinking about replacing your cabinet doors here are a few tips than can make the process go more smoothly and save money too.

The first decision is whether you intend to re-use your existing hinges or upgrade to newer style canceled hinges. Continue reading

Hybrid Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors

While this word often conjures up thoughts of fuel-efficient hatchbacks, it is an increasingly important term that we are embracing in the woodworking industry. Hybrid technology, like the blending of gas and electric engines in a car, creates a system where the sum of its parts is greater than each individual component on its own.

For us, this mixing of two unique materials comes in the form of MDF (medium density fiberboard) and solid wood. It means that we can use new and old technologies and materials in tandem to produce a high quality product, and our hybrid cabinet doors offer our customers the best of both worlds. Not only do they have the look and feel of our traditional wood products, a natural wood frame coupled with an MDF panel, but they also possess the attributes and properties of MDF that manufacturers have been perfecting for decades.

An engineered wood product made of broken down wood fibers, wax and resin, MDF was originally introduced as an alternative to solid wood products in the 1980s, and quickly took off in markets around the world. Today, production takes place in North America, South America, Europe, Asia and Oceania, with a majority of North American production centered around the the Pacific Northwest and eastern Canada.

Unlike hardwood and softwood, MDF resists the natural expansion and contraction from changes in humidity, weather, and temperature. Since it is resistant to these fluctuations, it is less likely to become distorted, warped or bow over time. These unique features mean that when MDF panels are combined with a solid wood frame, like in a hybrid door, the result is a strong and high quality finished product that will hold up to the elements.

Another admirable quality of hybrid doors is the overall consistency in the products. In solid wood products, there are variations in the grains, knots, and unpredictable defects in the wood itself. MDF panels eliminate this problem. The reliability in the production of MDF results in a dependably smooth and blemish free surface that allows for uniform paint and adhesive absorption across the panel face and core.

Not only is MDF strong, expansion and contraction resistant and can eliminate the problem of poor consistency and defects, but it is becoming increasingly environmentally responsible. MDF can be made of a variety of materials, and companies are constantly working on testing non-toxic resins and binders, and using recycled materials and wood scraps.

Hybrid doors are a rising trend in the industry that we are proud to offer our clients. In 2011, just three years ago, we shipped over 62,000 of these hybrid products. That number increased to 94,000 in 2012 and 155,000 in 2013. Through the end of May this year, we are averaging 18,000 hybrid pieces per month. To put that into perspective, we will sell and ship more hybrid panel products this year than we did in 2011 and 2012 combined.

The interest in MDF products and hybrid cabinet doors sees no sign of slowing down, and what started as a trend looks like it is here to stay. With advances in environmental sustainability, higher quality and faster production methods and new styles and combinations, we can’t wait to see what the future of this brings. It’s really the best of both worlds.

– See more at: http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/wood-blogs/industrial-woodworker/production-jeff-eichenseer/Hybrid-Cabinet-Doors-The-Best-of-Both-Worlds-279004971.html#sthash.WkIAGnAg.hbPFFPHK.dpuf

Understanding unfinished Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors

Although any cabinet door can be painted, not all materials used in cabinet doors paint equally well. Here are some tips on how to get cabinet doors that will paint well and remain beautiful for a generation.

The reason some wood types will give a perfect looking stain finish and a disappointing painted finish is the prominence of the woods grain and the way the different woods react to changes in relative humidity.

The finished look of a painted cabinet door made of Oak will have a noticeable grain pattern showing through the paint. A similar door made of Poplar, Alder, or Maple, when painted exactly the same, will show very little grain through the paint.

Most major manufacturers use Poplar for paint-grade cabinet doors, with Alder and Soft Maple sometimes used as well. Poplar is most often used because it sands very smooth and, after one or two coats of primer, paints exceptionally well.

Now lets look at the different styles of cabinet doors and how humidity changes affect the finished appearance of stained vs. painted doors.

There are two basic styles of cabinet doors: Inset (also called recessed or flat) panel doors and Raised panel doors.
Inset panel doors consist of a solid wood frame and a Plywood (or veneered) flat panel. Because plywood (especially plywood with an MDF core) doesn’t react dimensionally to humidity changes nearly as much as solid wood, the panels in recessed panel doors will not expand or contract significantly with changes in relative humidity.
Raised panel doors have a solid wood frame and a solid wood, glued-up panel. These glued-up, or solid wood panels significantly expand or contract to changes in humidity. This dimensional change in a solid wood panel is significant in the horizontal (against the grain) direction but insignificant in the vertical (with the grain).
In most woods the movement of a 16-inch panel in the horizontal direction will exceed 1/16-inch with a change in relative humidity of 30%.

In stained cabinet doors this panel movement goes unnoticed because the floating panel simply moves within the doors frame.
Painted doors aren’t so forgiving.
The problem with panel movement in a painted door is that the panel movement causes the paint to crack along the moving joint where the panel and frame meet.
Now you have a noticeable crack around the inside of the cabinet door.
This is not so much the fault of the door, which is behaving exactly as all wood has behaved for millions of year. The cracking is caused by the fact that the paint, once dried, is no longer as elastic as the wood.
Wood will always react to changes in humidity but dry paint can’t. Using primers, sealers and multiple coats of paint will slow the humidity-change caused dimensional changes buy won’t completely prevent them.

Now for the best partial-solution the industry has yet devised: MDF.
MDF, or Medium Density Fiberboard doesn’t react dimensionally to changes in relative humidity.
MDF also happens to take primer and paint better that most hardwoods.

That’s why we use MDF in all our Paint-Grade cabinet doors.
Better painted finish, greatly reduced panel movement, and much less likely to crack the paint around the panels.

An example of our Inset Panel Doors is the Shaker which can be seen, priced, and ordered online here.
An example of our Rained Panel Doors is the Heritage which can be seen, priced, and ordered online here.

Cabinet Refacing–How to save on cabinet doors online

Refacing kitchen cabinets can be much less expensive that replacing the cabinets.
But not if you must buy the new cabinet doors retail from a hardware or big-box store!

The internet has brought along some very interesting changes in our lives, and none are more advantages than the ability to buy manufactured items factory-direct, bypassing the middleman and retail markups.

This is now true for home-owners planning to reface their kitchen cabinets.
The professional kitchen refacers don’t buy the cabinet doors from a retail hardware store, why should you?

The largest manufacturer of refacing and replacement kitchen cabinet doors has been operating the www,CabinetDoors.Com website for 18 years and we supply thousands of cabinet doors daily to refacing companies all over the country.

We also offer these doors from the same website to home-owners and do-it-yourselfers everywhere.

You can still buy cabinet doors from retail chains (we also supply many of them), but their markup significantly increases the price you will pay.

So if you are looking for an American Made cabinet door, we offer several hundred designs in both traditional and mitered styles. Our production time for cabinet doors is between 7-and-10 working days, and we ship FEDEX to all to states.

Each of our doors is pictured in detail on the website and prices are shown as you enter the door size. Even the FEDEX shipping is calculated and shown before you finalize your order.

As you browse other websites you may see identical cabinet door pictures and even identical door descriptions, This is because our pictures and descriptions have been widely copied over the past 18 years, and we consider the imitators to be a testimonial to our products and service. Several of these imitators actually buy our doors and remarket them on their websites. The are the same quality doors we manufacture for our customers, the only difference is their prices are higher.

So if you are considering refacing your kitchen, you will find the largest selection with the fastest delivery at www,cabinetdoors.com.

To browse our most popular Replacement Cabinet Doors click on the picture below.

Our Most Popular Kitchen Cabinet Doors

The six rules for painting replacement kitchen cabinet doors

Here are some tried and true rules of thumb that relate to painting Kitchen Cabinet Doors.

* The first is the “prep-prep-prep” rule. That means that every hour spent preparing the cabinet door for painting saves two hours in repainting.

* The second is the 5-F’s rule. This rule is “Fine Finishers Finish Firewood First”. It simply means that experimenting with your finish on scrap wood can prevent ruining a door with a failed finishing attempt.

* The third is always break all sharp edges with fine sandpaper before painting. Sharp edges will not hold paint and will give the dried paint an unpainted spot to absorb moisture.

* The forth is to keep in mind that all wood types will expand and contract with changes in humidity. The paint will slow these humidity-caused wood movements, but no paint is totally moisture-proof, and paint will not stop the movements. This humidity-movement of wood presents another potential issue for the painted cabinet door. When the paint dries, it will no longer have the elasticity to move with the wood; so it will crack, usually along the glue joints where the Stiles & Rails join.

* The fifth relates to the hardness of the paint-grade wood. The softer the wood, the more easily it will dent, if hit with a pot or frying pan. The dent in the wood may be slight and hardly noticeable, but dried paint doesn’t dent without cracking. The weakest link in any painted cabinet door is not the door. Regardless of the wood type used, the weakest link is always the paint.

* The sixth practice covers the method of application of the paint. The desired look from painting a cabinet door is usually a high gloss finish, similar to the finish on a piano. A finish of this quality will certainly require a highly experienced finishing professional, and a dust-free spray booth. This doesn’t mean you can’t achieve an excellent finish, but it does mean you won’t get this piano-finish with a paint brush in your driveway. To get a professional looking finish you will need to spray-on the paint. Not from a Krylon can, but from an compressed-air, or airless, spray painting system.

Now for the step-by-step process I’ve learned through years of both success and a few failures.

Lets get started by working through the process step-by-step.

Lay the door on a flat surface and lightly sand the door with a flexible-foam sanding sponge (I like the 3M sanding block sponges best) or 220-grit sandpaper. Be sure to sand “with the wood grain” on the front, back, and sides.

Remove any residual grit with a clean cloth (tack cloth is best) or a vacuum.

Next comes what is probably the most important step in the entire process. Sealing and priming the wood.

The priming coat, is also called a sealing coat, or a Sealing indicating coat. These are essentially the same thing. It’s purpose is to seal the wood so that the final paint will adhere evenly and also make it easy to spot uneven areas in the wood while it’s still easy to correct the blemish. Primer can be applied by brush or roller. I like to use a roller for the bigger areas followed by a good quality brush for smoothing and painting the finer details on the cabinet doors. You won’t need the $25 brush but don’t get the $1 brush either. Expect to pay $6-$10 for a good, fine-bristle brush. Try not to get paint all over the brush, dipping only about 1/2″ to 1″ into the paint is best. Also, between coats you can place the brush in a plastic bag to keep it from drying out, and avoid cleaning it until the end of each day.

Any hardware or paint store will have a wide selection of sealer/primer and paint for your doors. Be sure and match the primer with the paint you plan to use. If you are going to use latex (water based) paint, use a latex primer. If using an oil based paint, use an oil based primer. Also try to use a primer with a drying time of 30 minutes or less. White primer works best because it will show the uneven areas of the door better. This allows you to spot (and correct) the areas that need filling before painting.

Once the first coat of primer is dry you will be able to see some small, uneven areas, scratches, or dents in the wood. Now it’s time for the filler. This is the most important step in obtaining that perfect painted finish.

All hardwoods have voids, which cannot be seen until it is primed. I use a filler to fill all of these spots. The two types of filler I’ve used with success are Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot Putty and Elmer’s Wood Filler Max White. The Bondo putty works best, mainly because it is an orange color than makes it easier to see where you have filled. The Elmer’s is white. Fillers must be sanded smooth after drying and then sealed with primer before painting to prevent the color from bleeding through.

After filling, sand the filled areas (use the 3M sponge to keep your fingers from sanding dips in the filled areas), wipe the dust off, and apply one last primer coat.

When the primer has dried, give the doors a light sanding and wipe them clean of any dust. If the final inspection doesn’t show any unfilled scratches or small voids, you are ready to paint.

Now comes the actual painting, which is actually the easiest phase of the project. But without going through the priming-sanding-filling-priming process, there would be little chance of obtaining a truly great painted cabinet door.

Using the same technique you used with the primer–roller for the large areas, and paint brush to smooth and paint the smaller and detailed areas–apply your paint to the doors.

There is no need to sand between paint coats but it is a good idea to insure there is no dried paint on the brush that could work its way into your finish on the following coats.

Although the finish may look good after one coat of paint, two coats are normally applied to assure durability of the finish. Just follow the directions on your paint (and primer) and follow the drying time recommendations.

Here is a link to the CabinetDoors.Com Blog where you will find several other posts on finding, sizing, ordering, painting, and staining Unfinished Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors.

Our complete line of Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors can be browsed here at CabinetDoors.Com

How to find Top-Quality Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors

The most serious problem to overcome in purchasing a high quality kitchen cabinet door is to locate a source of custom cabinet doors as opposed to the lower quality modular doors. Here are the differences between the custom and modular marketing models, and how the two approaches will affect the end consumer.

The hardware retail chain (selling modular doors) will forward your order to the stocking warehouse where the doors in your order will be pulled. The doors are then packaged and shipped to the retail store placing the order. This process usually takes 15-to-20 working days.
The modular doors will typically be thinner, use lower quality materials, and come in standard widths with 3-inch increments. These are the doors available through the hardware store chains and most internet websites.
Custom doors, on the other hand, can be ordered direct from the manufacturer in any width and height and in sizing increments of 1/16-inch. They can also be ordered in hundreds of door styles while the modular doors typically come in two or three styles.
The reason for the 3-inch increments and reduced style selection offered by the hardware chains relates to inventory investment. It’s much less costly to stock a few dozen door sizes than to stock the thousands of door sizes that would be required when offering true custom sizing.
Custom cabinet doors, on the other hand, are made by the door manufacturer and shipped directly to the consumer. There is no inventory to keep, all orders are made to order. There is no stocking warehouse to add cost and no retail store time delay or profit margin. The manufacturer will typically offer dozens (or even hundreds) of door styles and each of these styles is available in any wood type, where the hardware chain can offer only a few wood types.
The real benefit to the consumer is the quality of the doors. Because the Custom door manufacturer routinely processes hundreds of custom sized orders each day for cabinet shops all over the country, any web orders are easily added into the days production run. This web order is treated no differently than any other order from cabinet makers, remodelers, or kitchen designers everywhere. The quality supplied to these cabinet professionals is the same quality the web purchaser receives.
Other benefits to the consumer are the cost and the delivery time. The only added expense to the manufacturer is the cost of operating the website, which is considerably less that the hardware chain’s cost of operating a stocking warehouse and the retail chain’s required profit margin. So the cost difference is significant; Custom doors from the manufacturer’s website will be available in any custom size, cost about 30% less than hardware chain’s modular doors, be delivered in about half the time, and be of the quality a professional cabinet maker would expect.
When buying from the manufacturer’s website your order will be produced and delivered to your home in 8-15 working days (depending upon shipping distance from the factory).
These are the differences between what you will receive from the chain retailers and what is supplied direct from the manufacturer’s website.
It’s easy to see the value offered to the consumer as more actual manufacturers start to offer their products to the savvy web consumer.
If you would like to see the products offered by the oldest and largest manufacturer of custom replacement kitchen cabinet doors on the web please follow this link to CabinetDoors.Com.

 

How to Measure Kitchen Cabinet Doors for Replacement

When measuring for new or replacement kitchen cabinet doors, the type of hinge you intend to use will influence the door sizes.

If you plan to use your existing hinges simply measure your existing cabinet doors and order doors of the same sizes. Be sure to order your doors with an outside edge that your existing hinges will fit. If you wish to have us supply the hinges we will insure that the hinges you receive will fit the doors you order.

If you plan to use our Top-Quality, Blum Inserta, Clip-top hinges with 1/2-inch overlay, your hinges will ship with your order.

To insure your new doors are perfectly sized for use with our hinges, the door size measurements are figured as follows:

On single doors simply measure the cabinet’s opening size and add 1-inch to both the width and height. For instance, if the cabinet opening size is 12-inches wide and 24-inches high, the door size will be 13 x 25.

On wider cabinets with two doors (butting in the center), measure the width of the opening, add 1-inch, then divide by 2.

Height is figured the same as for single doors. Just add 1-inch to the opening.

For instance, if the opening is 28 inches wide and 30 inches high, each door width would be 28 + 1 = 29 divided by 2 = 14 1/2-inches wide.

Our Blum hinges have plus/minus 2 millimeters of adjustment which will allow enough side adjustment to have a gap of up to 1/8-inch between the butting doors. If you live in a high humidity climate you may want to subtract an additional 1/16″ from the width of your Butt Doors.

So, don’t be intimidated into thinking it’s difficult to figure door sized from openings. Just take the measurements and order the door style of your choice…of give us a call and we’ll talk you through the entire process.

To return to our Blog visit CabinetDoors.Com/Blog/ To browse our offerings of replacement kitchen cabinet doors visit Cabinetdoors.com.

How to confirm a website can be trusted

When looking for Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors on the internet CabinetDoors.Com offers complete privacy and total peace of mind for web ordering. But not all websites are equally cautious!
As the number of e-commerce websites grows into the millions, it can be difficult to determine which sites are legitimate and which sites are not so much.
Here are a few things to look for when selection a trust worthy website.
Read the About tab. If the website is new or doesn’t tell you how long they have been in business, that is a red flag.
Does the website have secure credit card processing? Look for proof that your credit card information is encrypted. The Logo of the largest online card processor is Authorize.net. If you see this logo you should have added confidence.
Look for indications of the website conforming to excellent business standards. The Better Business Bureau Logo assures that you are about to deal with a reputable online business.
Does the website have a phone number and a physical address? Give them a call before placing the order just to confirm someone actually answers the call. Keep in mind that if you have a problem you will be calling that same number, and listening to “how important your call is to them” for 20 minutes will get really annoying while you are trying to correct a problem.
Look at the pricing for the products. Are shipping costs explained and are those costs firm (or will they adjust after you place the order). If you don’t know the total cost before you place the order then don’t place it.
Read the customer reviews. Especially look at the reviews addressing you errors were handled.
It’s always a concern when ordering from an unknown website, but a little research before ordering can usually prevent the unexpected.
CabinetDoors.Com offers totally secure credit card processing and Authorize.net guarantees your safety. We are a Better Business Bureau listed company with an A+ rating, so you can be assured we will quickly correct any issues that may arise, and our 800-phone number is answered promptly during working hours. We invite you to call, even before you place your order to confirm our existence and remove any internet ordering concerns you may have.

How Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors are made

Basically there are three designs if cabinet doors; these are Slab (or Plank), Cope & Stick and Mitered.
Slab, or Plank doors are simply edge-glued strips of wood. Slab doors are very susceptible to warping and twisting caused by variations in humidity. Most cabinet door manufacturers don’t offer Slab doors for the reasons stated, but some small, local cabinet makers still make this door style. Sometimes “look-alike” Slab doors are made of laminated MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) and offered as Slab doors. These doors overcome the slab’s tendency to warp but have a plastic-like look along with all the negatives of MDF.

Cope & Stick doors are the oldest of the 5-piece cabinet door designs. They have been manufactured for several hundred years and are still popular today.
Cope & Stick doors consist of a frame made up of two stiles (the vertical side pieces), two rails (the horizontal top and bottom pieces), and the center panel. Those two stiles, two rails, and panel make up the components of the 5-piece cabinet door.
By using various machining methods and cutter profiles Cope & Stick doors can be manufactured in literally millions of design variations. A large door manufacturer may have 40 different Stile Cuts, 40 Panel Cuts, and 60 outside edge designs. When multiplied by several hundred different style possibilities, twenty wood types, and the various arch possibilities, the permutations multiply to many millions of unique door designs.
The most recognizable of the Cope & Stick door designs from the 1700’s is probably the Shaker Cabinet Door, which is actually still very popular today.

Mitered Cabinet Doors are also 5-piece doors with a different method of attaching the stiles and rails. Mitered rails attach to the stiles at a 45-degree angle, while Cope & Stick stiles attach to the rails at a 90-degree angle. Examples of Cope & Stick and Mitered cabinet doors can be seen on our site, CabinetDoors.Com.
With the invention of computer controlled mitering machinery, mitered doors have dramatically increased in dependability and popularity. Computerized machining allows for a mortise & tenon joining method that produces mitered joints that are as durable and tight as cope & stick joints. This dependability improvement, coupled with the greater design options have accounted for the steady growth in mitered door popularity.
Today, properly machined mitered doors are even more sturdy and reliable than cope & stick doors. Also, because of the increased productivity provided by the CNC Mitering machinery, mitered door prices are now equal to, or lower than comparable cope & stick doors.
See the CabinetDoors.Com Blog.

How to fix a stripped screw hole so cabinet doors can hang straight

We get lots of calls about how to fix cabinet doors that don’t hang straight.

This seems to be a problem that quite a few folks have come across so I’ll take a minute to offer a simple and quick fix.

If the problem is a bent, warn, or broken hinge it will need to be replaced, and a trip to the hardware store should do it.

However, the most common problem is that the screw hole is stripped and the screw just can’t hold it’s grip.

The usual cause of the stripped hole is that the door started to hang crooked and the screw was over tightened while attempting to fix the problem.

Here is the quick way to fix the stripped hole…

Get a few toothpicks.

Dip a toothpick in a little white glue (Elmers works great).

Stick the toothpick in the stripped hole.

Repeat with the toothpick into the glue into the hole until the hole is full.

Wait a day then replace your hinge and the screw.

Now the hinge should be able to be adjusted within it’s design parameters.

See our other Blog posts at cabinetdoors.com/blog/

Visit our website and browse our replacement kitchen cabinet doors at cabinetdoors.com

How to buy Top Quality Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors and save money

By Jim Hill August 22, 2014

The issue of saving money on any manufactured item is really very simple: The more middlemen that are involved in the process, the more the item gets marked-up.

The normal path any item takes to the final consumer is from the manufacturer to the Stocking Distributor, to a Wholesaler, to a Retail Store, and finally to the end user.

Each of these middlemen must increase the price by enough to cover his costs and add his profit.
Consider an average mark-up of 20% at the Stocking Distributor, another 20% at the Wholesaler, and 40%-50% at the Retail Store. This translates into roughly doubling the cost of the manufactured product.

If there was a way to remove or reduce the middleman mark-up the end user could save some serious money.

Well, there is a way to remove the costly middlemen from the market chain: the Internet.

To be honest, buying directly from the manufacturer from his website won’t cut the retail price in half. This is because some of the functions handled by Wholesalers and Retailers must now be handled by the manufacturer himself, and these functions create a cost to the manufacturer.
For instance, the manufacturer usually ships to very few wholesalers but in very large volumes. When selling from a website the manufacturer must now sell his product in much lower volumes and to many more users. Both lower volume per shipment and more total shipments have an added cost to the manufacturer, and he must pass this added cost on.

There are a few other cost adders that the manufacturer must absorb, like adding additional customer service and order processing employees.
These added expenses add cost but nowhere near the 100% mark-up the long supply chain added.

The bottom line is that retail stores hate the internet and go to great expense to keep their retail customers from finding which manufacturers sell to the public through websites.
Why would Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, etc. spend many millions each month on Google Advertising to get their websites listed at the very top of Google’s search result pages? The answer is that they don’t want you to look at the organic (non-paid) search results where the actual manufacturers webpages will offer the same products at 20% to 40% less.

CabinetDoors.Com is one of those manufacturers. We sell our extensive lines of Kitchen Cabinet Doors direct to the end user at about 30% less than the same door available from the big-box stores. Not only cheaper but with a 10-day delivery as apposed to 4-to-6-weeks delivery through the retail supply chain.

Another interesting aspect of buying direst is that the product you receive from the manufacturer is not only less expensive and delivered much faster, it’s usually the same product you would receive from the big-box retailer. Where do you think the big retailers get their products? They certainly don’t make them; They don’t make anything…They are just another middleman in the retail chain moving the manufacturers products to the end user.

So if you are ready for new or replacement kitchen cabinet doors, why not save some money and speed-up the process by looking at CabinetDoors.Com.

The Internet is here to stay and it is presenting end users with a choice they have never had before; a choice of keeping with the old method of supporting the supply chain, or by-passing the chain and moving into the future of manufactured goods marketing.

How to find Top Quality Kitchen Cabinet Doors

Trying to find high quality kitchen cabinet doors for your cabinet refacing project can be very difficult. Unless you know where to look. Knowing where some cabinet door manufacturers save money is the key to being able to spot quality.

One of the areas where manufacturing money is saved is in the thickness of the replacement cabinet door. Because hardwood lumber is sole by the board-foot (which is a volume measurement), thinner wood means lower cost. So, if the manufacturer cuts the thickness of his cabinet doors down to 3/4-inch or even thinner, he saves between 10% and 22% on his wood costs. Because most replacement cabinet door customers don’t even think about how thick a cabinet door should be, this deception usually goes unnoticed.
The home-owner, however, will notice the problems with the “thin” door. Thin doors are more prone to warping, more easily damaged, and tend to close with an annoying “Clank” as opposed to the “solid Thud” of a thicker door.

Most “Modular Cabinets” being marketed today are made in China and will have cabinet doors at-or-below 3/4″ thickness. Many American manufacturers of replacement cabinet doors also use thin wood for their doors.

There are still some American Kitchen Cabinet Door manufacturers that haven’t sacrificed quality by going to the thin woods, and here are links to a few.

Cabinetdoors.com is the oldest cabinet door manufacturer on the web and makes cabinet doors at a plump 13/16″. These doors are much more stout than the thin 5/8 or 3/4-inch import doors and will actually weigh 25-30% more than the thin Modular Cabinet doors. But, the most interesting part is that these doors cost the same or less than the Chinese imports. Cabinetdoors.com is well reviewed and Better Business Bureau rated A+. The main reason for the lower cost is that cabinetdoors.com sell factory direct off their website while the imports sell through middlemen and retail outlets like IKEA and Big Box Stores.

Several internet websites buy doors from Cabinetdoors.com and mark then up on their webpages, and even these websites are less expensive than the Big Box stores.

Another website making thick doors is cabinetdoorfactory.com. They have been in business for several decades and make a fine product.

Cimino’s Cabinet Doors, in Northern California also makes top quality full-thickness doors.

How to order Kitchen Cabinet Doors of the correct sizes for your cabinets.

1 August, 2014 BY JIM HILL

The sizes of replacement cabinet doors will depend upon the answers to a few easy questions.

Question 1. What door style and wood type are you considering?
There are hundreds of door styles to choose from. The major categories are divided by assembly method; Cope and Stick or Mitered. 

 Here is an example of the Cope & Stick assembly method: 

Here is an example of the Mitered assembly method:

Another part of the “Door Style” question is whether you prefer Raised Panel or Inset (recessed)Panel doors.
Both Raised and Inset Panel doors are available with either the Cope & Stick and the Mitered assembly methods. Here are some example pictures: 

The two pictures on the Left are examples of Cope & Stick, The first door is our Shaker Inset Panel door, and the second door is our Revere Raised Panel door. The two doors on the right are Mitered with the third being our Wilmington Inset Panel door. The forth door is our Delaware Raised Panel door.
Each of the cabinet doors we make are available in any wood type we offer.

Question 2. Are you replacing existing cabinet doors and reusing your existing hinges?
In this case simply measure the doors you are replacing and order new doors of the same sizes.

Question 3. Are you replacing both your existing doors and having us bore hinge cups for new Blum Concealed Hinges and supply those hinges?
If you plan to use our Top-Quality, Blum Inserta, Clip-top hinges with 1/2-inch overlay, your hinges will ship with your order.
To insure your new doors are perfectly sized for use with our hinges, the door size measurements are figured as follows:
On single doors simply measure the opening size and add 1-inch to both the width and height. For instance, if the cabinet opening size is 12-inches wide and 24-inches high, the door size will be 13 x 25.
On wider cabinets with two doors (butting in the center), measure the width of the opening, add 1-inch, then divide by 2. Height is figured the same as for single doors. Just add 1-inch to the height opening. For instance, if the opening is 28 inches wide and 30 inches high, each doors width would be 28 + 1 = 29 divided by 2 = 14 1/2-inches wide. The door height would be the 30-inch opening height plus 1-inch, for a door height of 31 inches.

Our Blum hinges have plus/minus 2 millimeters of adjustment which will allow enough side adjustment to have a gap of up to 1/8-inch between the butting doors. If you live in a high humidity climate you may want to subtract an additional 1/16″ from the width of your Butt Doors.

So, don’t be intimidated into thinking it’s difficult to figure door sizes from openings. Just take the measurements, work the arithmetic, and order the door style of your choice…or give us a call and we’ll talk you through the entire process.

How to measure for raplacement cabinet doors

28 July, 2014 BY JIM HILL

When measuring for new kitchen cabinet doors or replacement cabinet doors, the type of hinge you intend to use will influence the door sizes.

If you intend to use your existing hinges simply measure your existing cabinet doors and order doors of the same sizes.

If you plan to use our Top-Quality, Blum Inserta, Clip-top hinges with 1/2-inch overlay, your hinges will ship with your order. To insure your new doors are perfectly sized for use with our hinges, the door size measurements are figured as follows:
On single doors simply measure the opening size and add 1-inch to both the width and height. For instance, if the cabinet opening size is 12-inches wide and 24-inches high, the door size will be 13 x 25.

On wider cabinets with two doors (butting in the center), measure the width of the opening, add 1-inch, then divide by 2.
Height is figured the same as for single doors. Just add 1-inch to the opening.
For instance, if the opening is 28 inches wide and 30 inches high, each door width would be 28 + 1 = 29 divided by 2 = 14 1/2-inches wide.

Our Blum hinges have plus/minus 2 millimeters of adjustment which will allow enough side adjustment to have a gap of up to 1/8-inch between the butting doors. If you live in a high humidity climate you may want to subtract an additional 1/16″ from the width of your Butt Doors.

So, don’t be intimidated into thinking it’s difficult to figure door sized from openings. Just take the measurements and order the door style of your choice…of give us a call and we’ll talk you through the entire process.

How to replace your old Cabinet Doors with new Paint-Grade doors.

Thinking about replacing your kitchen cabinet doors with a new and different look?

Replacing your old cabinet doors with unfinished, paint-grade doors can give your kitchen a bright, new look.

And, repainting the existing cabinets and adding new painted cabinet doors is actually not that difficult if you follow a few simple rules and select the right wood for your painted doors. Continue reading

How to finish Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors…Like an expert:

Paint Grade Kitchen Cabinet DoorSo you just received your new Paint-Grade Cabinet Doors and are ready to start painting.
Here are a few tips to get an attractive and durable finish on those new doors.

Don’t stress-out about the painting process, even if you are an inexperienced painter.
Painted doors are not like stained doors where a disappointing stained finish can ruin your day. If you don’t like your painted finish just scuff the doors a little by re-sanding and paint them again.

First, unpack the new doors and inspect them front and back for any scratches caused by shifting during shipping. Smooth these scratches with 180-grit sandpaper and brush off the dust with a fine brush. Sand in the direction of the wood grain to avoid making cross-grain scratches on your doors.
The better the prep-sanding the better the painted finish will be so take some time making sure the sanding is as good as you can make it.

Next, lay the cabinet doors flat and either wipe them with a clean cloth or blow them with compressed air to remove the last traces of dust. Laying the doors flat makes paint runs less likely and makes it easier to see your progress from the same angle.

Now the painting process starts.
Raw wood needs a primer coat before painting and there are a few primer tips that will be helpful: Always match the primer to the type of paint you plan to use.
If you intend to use water-base (or Latex paint) then use a water base primer and if you are using an oil based paint then use an oil based primer.
In my experience Latex paints have advanced over the past decade to the point where they produce both appearance and dependability equal to their oil based counterparts, especially for indoor applications.
These advancements coupled with the water clean-up and environment-friendly disposal are worth considering when choosing your finishing materials.
While buying your primer and paint, also get a brush or two. You don’t need to buy the $20 super brush, but don’t get the $1 special either. A 2-3″ fine brush should be about $5.
You may also want to buy a small 3-4″ fine roller.

Now for the priming:
Lay the doors out flat on some kind of dropcloth. Newspaper works fine for this. It will reduce your anxiety to start with the doors face down. That way you will be finishing the backs first so as you get better at painting your best work will be on the fronts, and your learning experience won’t show.
Use the roller to apply a lite coat of primer to the panel and the inside detail of the stiles and rails. Now use the brush in those deep recesses to get the primer to cover all the machined surfaces. Use the roller again to coat the flat surfaces followed by the brush to give a smooth, even coating. After the primer is dried (follow the drying time instructions on the primer can) sand by hand gently with 220-grit paper, just enough to remove any fibers the primer raised, and to restore the smooth finish. Now turn the door over and repeat on the front.
After the primer is dry and lightly finish sanded, repeat the process with a second coat or primer.

Once the primer is dry you are ready for the paint.
The paint basically follows the same steps as the primer operation. Follow the instructions on your paint can to determine if you should sand between coats or not.
After the paint is dry you are ready to install the hinges.
If you are using hidden hinges, like our Blum Clip-tops, try not to get paint into the 30mm hinge cups. The hinges will be a snug fit into the cups and if you get paint into the holes you may need to sand it out to get the hinges into the cups.

Once you get started you’ll see that the process is really not difficult at all, and you will be able to obtain results that will impress your family and friends.

So, get started and if you haven’t ordered you new Paint Grade cabinet doors yet, now may be the time. Cabinetdoors.com has been manufacturing custom cabinet doors for 34 years and we’ve been offering doors on the internet longer than anyone else in the country. We have shipped hundreds of thousands of doors to every region and our customer reviews are a consistent 4+stars.

If you have any questions just visit our website at www.cabinetdoors.com, our Blog at www.cabinetdoors.com/blog, or call us. We will be happy to answer any questions you may have. We also have extensive posts, advice, and how-to’s on our Facebook page and our Google+ page.

Replacement Cabinet Doors; Choosing between the options.

Looking for Replacement Cabinet Doors? Here is how to focus your search and get exactly what you want.

 

The first step is to determine the look you are after.
Cabinet Doors typically come in two designs: Mitered and Cope and Stick.

These designs can be further divided into Raised Panel and Inset Panel, and the Cope & Stick doors can be further sub-grouped into square, single arch, or double arch.
All cabinet doors (mitered or cope & stick) are available as Glass Frames and as Glass Frames with French Lites.

 

Lets look at the two major design options first; Mitered and Cope & Stick.
Both the Mitered and Cope & Stick designs refer only to the frame of the cabinet door. That is the outside frame that secures the center panel. This frame is similar to a picture frame which holds the picture. The frame of a cabinet door can hold either a Raised Panel, an Inset Panel, or may be simply a Glass Frame with no panel.

 

The Cope & Stick method of assembling doors is well established and has existed for over a century. The machinery required for this method of joining stile and rails is fairly simple and is used by most of the cabinet shops that still make their own doors. Newer, computerized methods of Cope & Stick machining are available but, because of high cost, these machines are limited to the major cabinet door manufacturers. Our Cope & Stick processing lines utilize the latest technology and produce tolerances of under 10/1,000 inch.
Below is a picture of our Cope and Stick machining process.

Mitering machinery has followed a similar path to high-tech machining.
Older mitering methods of cutting the 45’s with a miter saw and joining the frame with dowels or biscuits simply cannot compete with modern computerized mitering machinery.
Computerized machinery will produce a perfect 45-degree miter time-after-time. These miter joints assemble perfectly and each Mitered Cabinet will be absolutely square with the joints tightly closed and securely joined.
Below is a picture of our Mitering process.

Now, within both of the Mitered and Cope & Stick frame designs come the options of having either a Raised Panel or an Inset Panel assembled inside the door frame.
We offer over 30 Raised Panel profile choices and most of those profiles are offered with any of our cabinet door designs. Below left is an example of a Cope & Stick Inset Panel door and a Cope & Stick Raised Panel door. Below right are pictures of Mitered Inset Panel and Raised Panel doors.

 

Cabinet Doors have literally thousands of possible design options, some extremely popular and some not yet even tried.
For instance, there are hundreds of different outside edges that can be machined on any door. Some of these edge designs are functional, like “Finger Pull” edges intended to offer a finger grip and eliminate the need for knobs.
Some are designs intended to enhance the look of the door and some are extensions accentuating the look of the stile/rail or the panel design.

 

Other cabinet door options include decorative Applied Mouldings.
These mouldings are special designed frame enhancements applied to the inside edge of the frame components. Some can be even be applied to specially routed cuts in the face of the frame, like various sized Rope Mouldings.
Applied Mouldings are available on many door designs in both the Cope & Stick and the Mitered door lines.

 

Glass Frames are another option in the Specialty Door lines.
Glass Frames will have no panel and an opening for the glass is routed from the back of the frame. These Glass Frames are also offered with French Lites, which are optional in every cabinet door design. Here is a link to our Cope & Stick Glass Frames.

Here are links to our Cope & Stick 4-Lite Frames and 6-lite French Lite Glass Frames.

Our line of Mitered Glass Frames is here.
Our line of Mitered 4 and 6-Lite French Lite frames can be seen here.
Our 6-Lite Mitered French Lite Glass Frames are here.

Because all Custom Cabinet Doors are made to order, and not pulled from stocking shelves, buying exactly what you want is not only a dream, it’s a reality.

Just follow these links below to browse the available Outside Edges, Panel Cuts, and Stile/Rail details that are offered by The Door Stop.
Click here to see our Outside Edges
Click here to see our Panel Cuts
Click here to see our Stile Cuts

How to avoid climate caused problems with wood furniture and Kitchen Cabinet Doors

23 January, 2014 BY JIM HILL

New home Cabinet Doors and remodeled homes with Replacement Cabinet Doors can face a difficult environment if relative humidity is left uncontrolled. Here’s why.

Ideally the woodâ_Ts moisture content in Kitchen Cabinet Doors will be matched to the average relative humidity of the region where the wood product will be used. This will allow the woodâ_Ts moisture content to be stable. When the wood moisture content and the local climate is closely matched, the finish on the cabinet door will keep the moisture content in the door from reacting too rapidly to relative humidity changes and, therefore prevent the damage those humidity swings could cause to an unfinished door.

Wood with moisture content of 7% is said to be at equilibrium (that is it wonâ_Tt take-on or give-off moisture) when relative humidity is at 30%. So wood with a moisture content of 7% will be stable when the humidity is 30%. As the relative humidity increases above 30% wood at 7% moisture content will absorb moisture, increasing the woodâ_Ts moisture content. When relative humidity decreases below 30% wood at 7% moisture will give off moisture. Itâ_Ts not the gaining or losing of moisture that is potentially damaging to wood products, itâ_Ts the speed of the change in moisture content. Unfinished wood will see the end-grain change moisture levels at a much faster rate than the center of the wood piece, and wood with large differences in moisture content across the length will develop significant internal stress. This internal stress can result in catastrophic damages, like cupping, warping, and even serious splitting.

Humidity is seldom constant and changes in relative humidity are certain. Thatâ_Ts where the cabinet doors finish offers protection. The finish is not intended to completely protect the door from the effects of humidity changes. But it is designed to slow the changes to the woodâ_Ts moisture content with the humidity fluctuations. When a rain storm approaches the relative humidity will spike but the finish on the cabinet doors will slow that high humidity from being absorbed into your doors so quickly as to cause damage. Moisture will still enter the doors, but before the wood moisture content is significantly increased, the storm will have passed and relative humidity will have returned to a point closer to the regions average level.

A more serious condition exists when an unfinished wood product has acclimated to a humidity level above 70%. If wood which has stabilized at this relative humidity is subjected to a very dry climate, with relative humidity levels around 10-15%, the high moisture content in the wood will boil-off very quickly. This condition where moisture leaves the end-grain faster than the moisture leaves the center (to replace it) is typically the major cause on end-grain splits. While end-grain splits are not even abnormal in hardwood lumber, that same end-grain split in the panel-cut of your Raised Panel Cabinet Door would be a serious defect.

The door styles most likely to show splits are Raised Panel Cabinet Doors. The area most susceptible to damage from rapid moisture loss is the end-grain on the raised panels. These panel cuts are where the panels are machined down from the A_-inch thickness in the canter to A¼-inch thickness where the panel tongue fits into the groove machined into the Rails. Splits caused by rapid moisture loss are common in these panel end-grains. Splits in the A_-inch thick panel center are much less common.

All traditional cope & stick cabinet doors have exposed end-grain on the stile ends which can show splitting with rapid moisture loss, although not as likely as the raised panel end-grain.

Mitered doors have the stile end-grain slightly protected because of their design so stile end-grain splits are somewhat less likely than in traditional doors.

Itâ_Ts important to remember that we are talking about the worst-case of an Un-finished cabinet door being exposed to an extreme climate change. While this perfect-storm of events is likely to damage unfinished cabinet doors, there is a preventive solution; Finish your cabinet doors as soon as they are delivered!

As a rule of thumb, wood products manufactured in a damp climate and shipped into a dry climate, unless finished very soon after delivery, have a high degree of potential danger, while wood products made in a dry climate can usually be shipped into a wet climate (or any other climate) with minimal likelihood of damage. This is because most climate-caused damage to a cabinet door comes from rapid moisture loss, and damage from rapid moisture gain is far less likely. That is one of the mail reasons we built our factory in Arizona. Arizonaâ_Ts dry climate allows our products to be shipped anywhere in the country with very little risk of climate related damage to the product.

The sealer and lacquer will slow the moisture migration, even in extreme climate conditions, to a point where your new doors will be a dependable, reliable, and beautiful addition to your home for generations.

When considering a location to place your unfinished cabinet doors prior to finishing, ask yourself this question; would this be a place I would store an expensive piano or other piece of fine wood furniture? Click here to get Laura Ashley voucher codes for amazing furniture.

Here is a Glossary to help clarify Woodworking Terms used in the Cabinet Industry

January 2014 by Jim Hill
Accessories – Supplemental parts of the cabinet referred to as bells and whistles. Any nonessential component such as rollouts, pullouts, tilt-outs, hardware, etc.

Angled Corner – Any cabinet type designed to fit on an end of an upper or lower cabinet creating a fixed angle.

Applique – A carved or etched decorative piece of wood installed on the face of cabinets. Also referred to as an on lay.

Base Cabinet – Any cabinet type designed to install directly on the floor. Some form of a top will be applied in the field, such as laminate, wood or granite.

BERP – (Base End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, designed to be applied to the side or back of a cabinet, an island for example.

Bevel – A portion of material removed from the edge of a piece of wood. This technique can be used to create a natural finger-pull such as on a beveled-edge door. Also is used to create a specific angle when two pieces of wood are joined together. For example, when two pieces have a 45A° bevel they create a right angle when joined.

Blind Corner – Any cabinet type, upper or lower, designed to install into a corner of a room. Another cabinet will install directly adjacent to it hiding the blind portion. This gives access to an otherwise dead corner providing more storage.

Bumper Pads – A small spongy material placed on any cabinet door designed to soften the noise as the door is closed.

Bun Foot – A round decorative furniture grade foot used on the bottom corners of base cabinets.

Butt Doors – Two cabinet doors covering a single opening, normally too large for one door. The edges of both doors nearly meet. The opening does not have a center mullion.

Butt Joint – A term used when the edges of two pieces of wood are joined together.

Cathedral Arch – A term used when the top cabinet door has a curved shape in the panel and frame.

Center Stile – A vertical strip of hardwood that is a component of the face frame. It usually divides a cabinet opening equally. Also referred to as a mullion.

Cherry – A moderately hardwood having a fine to medium uniform grain.

Close Grain – Having fine and closely arranged fibers or fine texture. Maple is considered to have close grain.

Color Variation – A natural variation of color inherent in any wood species. Soil type, mineral deposits, water levels, temperature and geographical location are all factors in the degree of variation.

Concealed Hinge – A term used to describe a cabinet hinge that is not visible from the outside. Referred to as a cup hinge.

Corbel – A decorative wooden bracket used as a support mechanism for mantels, bar tops, etc.

Corner Blocks – Any type of wooden, plastic or metal component used to strengthen any joint. Typical application is where face frame and end panel are joined.

Crown Molding – A term for any molding that is applied to the top of upper cabinets.

Custom Cabinets – Cabinets built to suit very specific needs. They are generally not limited to product lines, dimensions or design. They are typically more expensive but donâ_Tt necessarily offer the best value available in the marketplace.

Dado – A 1/4″ +/- deep channel or groove cut across the woodâ_Ts grain is called a dado. A dado joint is formed when a cross member is fitted perpendicular into the channel.

Dentil Mould – A term used to describe a decorative tooth-like pattern on any trim molding.

Door Styles – A variety of cabinet doors the consumer has to choose from when designing their home. Some styles are:

Arched raised panel (arch can be any of several arch designs)

Square raised panel

Arched flat panel

Square flat panel

Mitered raised panel

Mitered flat panel

Dovetail – A term used to describe a joining process of two pieces of material. Both pieces have wing-shaped notches that interlock. Generally known as one of the strongest joints typically used in furniture and cabinet drawers.

Drawer Face – Finished front panel of the drawer assembly. The profiles will match the door chosen.

End Panel – The panel forming the cabinet side.

Engineered Wood – A term used to describe several new types of construction material. Fiberboard, such as MDF and HDF, are more dimensionally stable than solid wood.

Exposed Hinge – A term used to describe a cabinet hinge that is visible from the outside. Some types are barrel hinges.

Face Frame – The front facing of a cabinet typically constructed of hardwood. The vertical pieces, called â_ostiles,â__ and the horizontal pieces, called â_orails,â__ reinforce the cabinet structure and provide mounting support for doors and drawers.

Fillers – Pieces of hardwood matching a chosen cabinet color. Sizes range from 1″ to 6″ wide and 30″ to 96″ long. Common use is to fill the space where a modular cabinet does not fill a specific wall dimension.

Finishes – A term for the surface treatment of a wood product to enhance the beauty of its natural wood color and grain definition. Usually applied in steps, such as stain, sealer and a clear top coat such as a catalyzed varnish.

Flute – A concave shallow groove that is routed into a wood surface. Fluting is usually applied vertically. Common use is to overlay on a cabinet stile or filler for a decorative effect.

Framed Cabinet – A traditional style of cabinetry. The box is built behind a picture frame-like structure on which the doors and drawers are applied.

Frameless Cabinets – Often referred to as European-style cabinets. Components, doors and drawers are applied to the inside of the box thus eliminating the traditional face frame.

French Leg – A furniture-grade decorative leg used on the bottom corners of base cabinets.

Full Overlay – Doors and drawers are sized large enough to cover the cabinet face with only minimal clearances between them.

Furr-Down – A box-out at the ceiling typically 12″ high and 14″ deep. Often used for AC ductwork. Kitchen cabinets are installed up to it creating a step effect. Also called a soffit or bulkhead.

Galley Rail – Any molding using tiny spindles to create a front retainer along a plate rail cabinet top. It gets its name because of its likeness to galley rails used on ships.

Grain Variation – A term used to describe a species of woodâ_Ts natural dissimilar grain pattern.

Hickory – A heavy, hard, strong, stiff wood with a fine uniform grain.

Hinge – A mechanical device used to attach a cabinet door to a cabinet box. There are many styles offering different applications, degree of swing and visibility.

Joint – A construction term used when two pieces of material are joined or attached together. Common types are:

Butt
Cope and Stick
Dado
Dovetail
Miter
Mortise and Tenon
Rabbet
Tongue and Groove

Kerf – A saw cut that is made on the surface to relieve stress. It is used to create a curve, such as with a toe kick around a curved base cabinet.

Kiln Dry – A term used to describe the process of oven drying fresh cut lumber. The process removes excess moisture so raw lumber can be fabricated into a finished product.

Knob – A hardware item, typically round in shape, attached to doors and drawers for function and decoration.

Knot – A hard node in any wood species where a branch once grew.

Laminate – v. A term used when layers of wood are bonded together through a process of heat and pressure. n. The plastic product used to fabricate kitchen countertops.

Lazy Susan – A corner kitchen base cabinet utilizing kidney shaped shelves rotating on a center poll for easy access.

Maple – A hard closed grain, light colored wood.

MDF – (Medium Density Fiberboard) A common grade of engineered construction material.

Melamine – A slick plastic-like material used to cover a substrate of engineered wood or MDF. This material is popular because it is durable and easy to clean.

Millwork – Any type of machined woodwork.

Mineral Streak – A discoloration in any species of wood caused by mineral deposits the tree extracts from the soil. Commonly seen as a blackish-blue streak within the grain.

Miter – A joint made when two beveled surfaces form a specific angle. For example, two pieces of wood each beveled at 22 1/2A° will form a 45A° angle when joined together.

Modular – A standardized increment of measurements specific to a product. Modular cabinets are generally manufactured in 3″ increments.

Mortise and Tenon – A specific joining technique. The mortise (groove or slot) is cut into a piece of wood. The joint is made when an opposing piece cut with a tenon (a collared protrusion) is slipped into the mortise.

Mullion Doors – Also referred to as a divided light door. The solid center panel is omitted and replaced with horizontal and vertical mullions dividing the open panel into smaller panels. Clear, smoked, bronzed, opaque or leaded glass inserts (provided by the consumer) can fill these panels for the desired effect.

Nomenclature – A string of letters and numbers used to identify specific cabinet types or accessories.

Oak – A durable open grained hardwood.

Onlay – A carved or etched decorative ornament installed on the cabinet face. Also referred to as an appliquAc.

Open Grain – Large pores or course texture in grain. Oak is an example of an open-grained wood. (See Oak.)

Overlay – Decorative panels affixed to a cabinet surface or attached to the ends of upper or base cabinets.

Peninsula – Similar in design to an island except open on only three sides. Often used in â_oLâ__ shaped kitchens as serving bars that separate the kitchen from the dining or family room.

Plywood – Multiple layers of wood veneer bonded by an adhesive forming panels of varying thickness.

Pull – A hardware item, usually crescent shaped, attached to doors and drawers for function and decoration.

Rabbet – A technique for joining two pieces at right angles. A portion of material is removed from the edge of one piece similar to the thickness of the other piece. When the two are attached the joint is strengthened. Also called a half-lap joint.

Racking – Generally caused by poor installation. The cabinet is twisted out of square resulting in poor door and drawer alignment and operation.

Rail – A horizontal door or cabinet frame component.

Reveal – The exposed portion of the cabinet face frame when the cabinet door and drawer are closed.

Rope Molding – A piece of molding milled to appear twisted like rope.

Rout – To drill or gouge out an area of wood for decorative or joining purposes.

RTF – (Rigid Thermo Foil) Used as a laminate in the process of fabricating a one-piece door.

Sapwood – Younger, softer outer portion of the tree trunk, just under the bark.

Scribe Allowance – Face frame extensions beyond the cabinet box for trimming to ensure proper fit.

Scribe Molding – A generic piece of molding, usually 1/4″ thick and up to 1″ wide, for the purpose of trimming and concealing any discrepancy where the cabinet meets a sheetrock wall.

Semi-Concealed Hinge – A term used to describe a cabinet hinge that is barely visible from the outside. Some types are called kerf or knuckle hinges.

Semi-Custom Cabinets – Cabinets built in 1/8″ increments, opposed to modular cabinets built in 3″ increments. Most have certain limitations in their product lines but are usually more flexible in dimension and design than a typical modular or stock cabinet product. They are typically more expensive but donâ_Tt necessarily offer the best value available in the marketplace.

Skin – A 3/16″-thick veneer panel generally used on the ends or backs of upper or base cabinets.

Soffit – A box-out at the ceiling typically 12″ high and 14″ deep. Often used for AC ductwork. Kitchen cabinets are installed up to it creating a step effect. Also called a fur-down or bulkhead.

Standard Overlay – A door style designed with a specific hinge type. The cabinet door overlaps the cabinet opening 1/2″ on all four sides.

Stile – A vertical door or cabinet frame component.

Stretcher or Nailer – A structural component of the cabinet box. They are hidden horizontal members connecting the end panels at back of cabinet. During the installation process 2″ to 3″ screws are used to mount the cabinet to the wall through the stretchers.

Substrate – The original surface or the structural material beneath the layer of veneer or laminate.

TERP – (Tall End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, designed to be applied to the side or back of a cabinet, a pantry or refrigerator end panel.

Thermofoil – A 100% flexible vinyl laminate that is applied to the substrate by using an adhesive or heat and pressure.

Tilt-Out Trays – A popular accessory item ideal for storing sponges and other dishwashing supplies. They are plastic trays attached to the back of false fronts at the sink area.

Toe Kick – The recessed area at the bottom of base cabinets usually 4″ high and 3″ deep.

Tongue and Groove – A specific joining technique, the groove is cut into one piece of wood. The joint is made when an opposing piece cut with a tongue (a collared protrusion) is slipped into the groove.

Valance – A decorative hardwood panel installed across an open area, generally used above desks or sinks.

Varnish – A hard, transparent coating used to protect the cabinet surface.

Veneer – A thin layer of wood (1/32″) of solid wood that is applied with an adhesive to a substrate.

VERP – (Vanity End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, applied to the side or back of a cabinet, a vanity end panel.

Wainscot – A wooden facing or paneling that is generally applied to a wall or large end panel of a cabinet.

Wall Cabinet – Any cabinet type designed to install at or above eye level. Common application is 18″ above the kitchen base cabinets. Also referred to as an upper cabinet.

Warp – Any wood product that distorts or twists out of shape. The general cause is excessive heat or moisture.

WERP – (Wall End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, applied to the side or back of an upper cabinet.

How to remove water glass rings from a wood table top

Drinking glasses can leave a white circle on your wood table top. Here are some links to Youtube videos showing how to remove these water rings.
Be very careful when using these methods and proceed in small steps. Use a little heat, check the spot, add a little more heat, check the spot again…add a little more heat…It’s better to add heat in a dozen steps than to add so much heat the finish melts.
We have found that using a clean white, cotton t-shirt produces consistent results without damage to the wood…as long as you apply the heat in very small steps.

Removing water rings video #1

Removing water rings video #2

For more information on removing water stains visit youtube.com and search for “removing water stains from wood tables”.
Good luck and remember to use caution applying the heat…a very little at a time.

Return to CabinetDoors.com.

New Machinery At The Door Stop

IMG_1036

New Coping Machines

New Coping machinery arrives at The Door Stop

Along with new Triple-head Widebelt Sanders and additional CNC Mitering machinery, The Door Stop has added two additional Cope & Stick Coping Machines.

Accuracy in Coping is essential in hi-quality cabinet door manufacturing. Accurate and tight-tolerance copes make for exceptionally tight joints and are necessary for the widebelt sanding operations that follow. Without highly accurate copes the sanding operations will remove unequal amounts of material across the face of the door, not allowing the successively finer widebely grits to completely remove the scratch pattern left by the prior sanding belt.
Continue reading

Measuring Cabinet Openings

When measuring for new cabinet doors, the type of hinge you intend to use will influence the door sizes.

If you intend to use your existing hinges simply measure your existing cabinet doors and order doors of the same sizes.

If you intend to use our Blum Inserta, Clip-top hinges with 1/2-inch overlay, the door size measurements are figured as follows:
On single doors simply measure the opening size and add 1-inch to both the width and height. For instance, if the cabinet opening size is 12-inches wide and 24-inches high, the door size will be 13 x 25.
On wider cabinets with two doors, measure the width of the opening, add 1-inch, then divide by 2.
For instance, if the opening is 28 inches wide and 30 inches high, each door width would be 28 + 1 = 29 divided by 2 = 14 1/2-inches wide.
Height is figured the same as for single doors. Just add 1-inch to the opening.

Our Blum hinges have plus/minus 2 millimeters of adjustment which will allow side adjustment to have a gap of up to 1/8-inch between the butting doors.

Triple-head Widebelt Sanders

IMG_1001

New Triple-head widebelt sanders


IMG_1013 Our old widebelt sanders are being sold to smaller cabinet door manufacturers around the country.

Every few years the manufacturers of sanding equipment make major improvements in the Widebelt Sanders. These new sanders are Triple-head, 43-inch wide unite with computer control of the wood removal and built-in dial indicators to allow for sanding-thickness tolerances of a few thousandths of an inch.
The Panel Sanding has a 43-inch helical-head knife planer to clean the glued-up panels followed by two additional sanding heads. Continue reading

Machining Mitered Cabinet Doors

Mitered Cabinet Doors need exact machining to produce a tight and accurate joint and obtaining perfect miter joints is nearly impossible without computerized machinery.
We use Accu-Systems CNC Machining systems for all our mitering.

This video demonstrates the joining method we use at CabinetDoors.Com to produce every mitered cabinet door we make.
We have made a multi-million dollar investment in machinery for our Mitered Cabinet Doors, and this investment allows us to produce Mitered Cabinet Doors at a quality level unmatched in the industry.
Our Mitered Doors will have tight joints with perfect alignment of the stiles and rails.
 

How To Recognize Real Quality

Cabinet Door Assembly LineThe demand for new cabinets in new housing and remodeling is addressed by two very different manufacturing approaches.

One approach is to optimize manufacturing efficiency by limiting the sizes manufactured and maximizing employee productivity. This approach is referred to as “Modular Cabinets”.

The Modular Cabinet manufacturer usually makes the cabinet boxes with widths starting at six-inches and increasing in two-inch steps. This maximizes employee productivity by manufacturing one cabinet box size one shift and another size the next shift.

While working on an assembly line making 10,000 of the same thing might not be the most challenging or rewarding of jobs, productivity certainly increases and labor costs are reduced.

The modular manufacturer simply adjusts his schedule to maintain a readily available inventory of cabinet boxes in his warehouse.

Modular Cabinet Manufacturers usually offer a selection of cabinet doors to give the finished Modular Cabinet a more “Custom” look.

Entry-level home builders typically install Modular Cabinets. These cabinets are also stocked and sold by all the Big Box Stores across the country.

For the past several years, Modular Cabinet manufacturing has been moving to Asia, with China becoming the largest manufacturer. American manufacturers have been finding it impossible to compete with the lower labor and regulatory costs found on the far east.

The second approach to manufacturing cabinets is referred to as “Custom Cabinet Manufacturing”.

Unlike Modular Cabinets coming in 2-inch increments, Custom Cabinets are manufactured to the actual size needed.

Also unlike Modular Cabinets, Custom Cabinets are made in the United States by thousands of Custom Cabinet Shops. These shops typically have between ten and fifty employees who design and build each cabinet to the exact size requested in the design plans. If the architect requires cabinets in 1/16″ increments, that’s what the Custom Cabinet Maker builds. Cabinet Makers in Custom Cabinet Shops tend to be highly skilled, and well paid, professionals with years of experience mastering their profession. These Cabinet Makers are not tied to an individual workbench, but tend to move between many skilled positions within the manufacturing process. The Custom Cabinet Shop uses a creative approach which utilizes the skills and experience if the Cabinet Maker, as opposed to an assembly line which stresses repetitive action to compensate for the lack of motivation and inexperience of the minimum-wage workforce.

Most high-end Home Builders and Furniture manufacturers utilize Custom Cabinet Makers because of the large difference in overall quality of the cabinets.

The quality differences are usually visible and include differences in workmanship, wood grain and color matching, sanding and finish quality, overall appearance, and reliability.

Custom Cabinet Makers purchase woods harvested in the United States, and almost 100% of American woods are grown and harvested using sustainable processes.

This is not usually the case with woods harvested in Asia or South America.

Another major difference between Modular and Custom Cabinets is with the Cabinet Doors installed on the cabinets.

Modular Cabinets from Asia have doors made in Asia. These doors should be expected to show the same levels of quality as the cabinets.

Modular Cabinet Door quality levels are generally lower, sanding and finishing are less stringent, an unskilled or under-aged workforce is commonly recruited, and no importance is given to the sustainability of the woods used or the harvesting methods.

American Custom Cabinet Shops, on the other hand, typically purchase cabinet doors from a few large cabinet door manufacturers, or the hundreds of smaller manufacturers.

These dedicated Custom Cabinet Door Manufacturers will offer from dozens to thousands of cabinet door styles built in every sustainable wood type that grows in the United States or Canada.

Major Cabinet Door Manufacturers are producing thousands of doors per shift using skilled labor and most use computerized machinery to guarantee accuracies modular manufacturers simply cannot match. Modern American door manufacturers will measure door size tolerances with accuracies within 15-thousandths of an inch. Door thickness will be uniform across the door within 5-thousandths of an inch, and sanding quality is considered by cabinet makers to be “stain ready”.

In summary, the differences between Custom and Modular Cabinets are visible in appearance, obvious in quality, and the difference in expected lifetime is triple, with Custom Cabinets often being kept in the home and simply refinished after generations of useful service.

Return to the Cabinetdoors.com/blog

Visit our cabinetdoors.com website

Not All Red Oaks Are Created Equal

Red Oak Cabinet DoorRed Oak is one of the most popular woods for cabinets and it’s reliable, it’s durable, and it’s beautiful when used for cabinet doors. But, not all of the Red Oaks are equally beautiful.

There are many varieties within the Red Oak families and this discussion is limited to those more commonly used in the manufacture of Cabinet Doors.

Red Oak is divided into three main growing regions, Southern, Appalachian, and Northern. Each of these regions can be further sub-divided based on the color and quality of the Red Oak that grows within the sub-regions.

As a broad overview, Oak from the southern regions has a faster growth rate and tends to have the widest color range of the regions. Oak from the Appalachian regions grows slower than the Southern Oaks with a color range somewhat more consistent than the Southern Oaks.

The Northern Oaks are generally considered to be the highest quality. The Northern Oaks have a shorter growing season and therefore have a slower growth rate. The color is much more consistent, and the mill prices are higher than the Appalachian or Southern Oaks.

The best of the best is a sub-group of the Northern Oaks which grows in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and the parts of Wisconsin and Minnesota. Red Oaks from this region are commonly referred to as Glacial Northern Red Oak. The growth rings tend to be very tight indicating the very slow growth rate, and the color consistency is exceptional. The color is a Light Wheat Color.

I’ve visited many mills in each region and most mills can supply limited quantities of Wheat Colored Red Oak by performing a color sort, but the wide color spectrum of Red Oak from the Appalachian and Southern regions makes color sorting labor intensive.

Red Oak sorts from the Glacial sub-region of Northern Oak are easy as the majority of those Oaks are naturally Wheat Color, so the pricing tends to reflect the Grading Rules more than the color sort labor constraints.

Cabinets used in higher-end housing tend to be made by local Custom Cabinet Shops while cabinets used in more affordable housing is more likely to be “Modular Cabinets”. The Modular Cabinet industry, for the last decade, has been hard pressed to match the costs of Chinese manufacturers and many have moved their operations to China, or started using the lower cost southern oaks.
Those Custom Cabinet Shops that supply custom home builders are expected to supply a product that is noticeably superior to the Modular Cabinets, and part of that “superior” requirement applies to a very uniform and consistent color in the Red Oak doors.

That is why CabinetDoors.Com uses Glacial Northern Red Oak in every one of the Red Oak doors we make.

Return to the Cabinetdoors.com Blog

Visti the CabinetDoors.Com website

Design Your Own Cabinet Doors

Design your own cabinet doorsNow you can design your own Cabinet Doors, and we can build them…The possibilities are in the Millions!
So, if you want to design your own Cabinet Door, here is where you can create your own unique look!
When you calculate all of our Cabinet Door possibilities by mix-and-matching wood types, arched or square, Mitered or Traditional, outside edges, stile-cuts, and panel-cuts, the numbers get huge. All these options are capable of creating several million uniquely different cabinet doors.

Those looking for a Cabinet Door that nobody has ever seen before, and that has probably never even been manufactured before, can design their own by choosing from our huge range of options.

These options have, until now, only been available to Custom Cabinet Makers, but now we are making all options available to those adventurous enough to actually design their own cabinet doors.

No door manufacturer is offering anywhere near the number of possibilities you can create here. Other Cabinet Door websites are offering from a dozen to, at most, a hundred different doors; we are now opening the design process far beyond anything ever offered before. We are offering literally Millions of Cabinet Door Design Possibilities!

So, If you want to explore the mix-and-match process, it starts by opening these PDF files. Click to open then choose your Stile-cut, your Panel-cut, and your Outside-edge. Then finish the process from our CabinetDoors.Com website by selecting your Door Style and Wood Type. Once your selections are finalized just email us with the design options, quantities, and sizes and we’ll email you the quote.

Click here to see our Outside Edges

Click here to see our Panel Cuts

Click here to see our Stile Cuts

Changes to the doors displayed on the CabinetDoors.Com website require additional charges, generally each changes add between $3-to-$5 per square foot, but Call or email when you’ve made your choices and we’ll calculate the actual costs and email our quote for your approval.

Now you have the opportunity to actually design your own cabinet doors and create a kitchen that is truly One-Of-A-Kind. Here is your chance to make your statement to the world with a kitchen totally unique, and unlike any other, anywhere.

Click here to return to the Cabinetdoors.Com/Blog

Click here to visit the CabinetDoors.Com website.

Moulder Knife Marks Per Inch

Proper Moulder operationImproperly set moulder feed rates can cause a Washboard finish that is often invisible until stain is applied.

Here is a table published by Wisconsin Knife Works, Inc. summarizing the results of their study on the number of knife marks per inch required to produce a stain-ready finish on various wood types.
This table shows the Knife Marks per Inch ranges generally recommended for wood species commonly used in manufacturing Cabinet Doors. Continue reading

Accurate Sizing & Humidity Effects

Our cupboard doors are accurate to within 0.015 inchesThere are three key steps in manufacturing 5-piece Cabinet Doors that will determine the sizing accuracy of the finished door. If each of these steps is held within a tight tolerance, the finished product will be accurate to within the desired 1/64 inch, or about 15-thousandths.

The first of the three critical operations is moulder accuracy (sometimes americanized as “molder”).
The second critical operation is stile & rail length cutting accuracy and the third is consistency in stock removal during the operation of machining the outside edge.
Our standard is to hold each of the three critical operations to a tolerance of 5-thousandths of an inch. This produces a finished cabinet door with a worst-case sizing tolerance of 15-thousandths, of 1/64-inch.

The stile stock moulding operation starts the process of insuring sizing accuracy and, without close attention to this step, consistency in sizing the finished door is almost impossible.
When cabinet door stile stock is moulded, the width of this stock is the most critical factor in accurately sizing a 5-piece cabinet door. If the moulded width of the stile stock is held within a tolerance of 5-thousandths of an inch, the subsequent operations that affect sizing can be standardized.

At CabinetDoors.Com length cutting of stiles and rails is performed on CNC machinery so achieving our 5-thousandths tolerance for this operation is actually easy. Cutting accuracies of better than 5-thousandths are normal.
The outside edging operation is more difficult to hold because the edging cutter’s diameter changes from sharpening, so slight variations do occur. Our average edging tolerance does achieve the 5-thousandths inch goal, but the standard deviation shows a range from 2-thousandths to 9-thousandths inches.

Because the moulder accuracy is key to finished door sizing, let’s look at some examples of inaccurate moulder adjustment and the effects these errors will have on the finished size of a 5-piece cabinet door.
First let’s assume the moulder is set up correctly and the stile stock, which is targeted at 2 1/4–inch width, is actually oversized by 5-thousandths (2.255 inches). Assuming the rail length cutting and the edging operations are both perfect, the finished door will be 10-thousandths oversized. Most cabinet makers will be measuring the cabinet doors with a tape-measure, so the 10-thousandths error on this door will be considered perfect and within the acceptable range of even the most demanding cabinet professional.
Now let’s assume the moulding operation is not within a width tolerance of 5-thousandths and is actually over by 15-thousandths of an inch. That will make the stile width 2.265 inches, with the additional 15-thousandths doubled to 30-thousandths by the same error in each of the two stiles. This door will be oversized by 1/32 inch even if the other critical sizing operations are perfect.
This 1/32-inch error, while acceptable by the standards of the industry, is detectable with a tape measure.

The challenge to the cabinet door manufacturer is to size the door as accurately as possible by setting tight measurement quality tolerances on the operations that affect door sizing.

The variable beyond the control of the manufacturer is the normal swing in relative humidity and the effects humidity changes will have on the moisture content of the wood in the doors. All cabinet doors will react to changes in relative humidity by either absorbing, or giving-off moisture. Unfinished doors will react sooner to humidity changes, but even properly finished doors will eventually reach a balance between the relative humidity and the door’s internal moisture content. These moisture content variations will result in dimensional changes to the stiles and rails of the cabinet door.
These dimensional changes can be huge and are usually far greater than the total manufacturing sizing tolerances.
The definitive study on humidity and its effects on wood moisture content, and the changes it causes to wood dimensions was conducted by the US Forest Service, a department within the US Department of Agriculture.
The Forest Service, published the Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material in 1999 (and 2010), which outlined the expected moisture-content caused dimensional changes in various woods. The 1999 study focused on wood flooring but applies to all wood products kept inside the house and subjected to normal fluctuations in relative humidity. The 2010 study is extensive and covers almost all commercially used woods.
The 500+ page 2010 study can be viewed or downloaded here (Chapters 4 & 13 deal with Moisture and expansion properties)… http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100&header_id=p

I’ve tried to simplify the findings by focusing on plainsawn (Flat Sawn) Red Oak for this example. But, woods other than Red Oak and differing sawing-grain directions, like quarter-sawn, have different Coefficients for Dimensional Change. Because plainsawn woods are more popular and tend to have a greater dimensional reactions to moisture variations, I have used plainsawn in my example.
The bottom-line finding of the USDA research is that a 4% change in the moisture content of the 2 ¼-inch stile of a 5-piece Red Oak cabinet door will be expected to cause a dimensional change of 0.0332 inches, or about 1/32-inch, per stile. That means that a 4% change in moisture content is expected to expand, or shrink the width of a 5-piece Red Oak cabinet door by 1/16-inch, which dwarfs the 1/64-inch worst-case tolerance of the cabinet door as it finishes the manufacturing process.
This 1/16-inch moisture-caused change is 4-times the combined total tolerance of the critical steps in the making of a cabinet door, and certainly needs to be considered when designing cabinets. This is especially true when considering the spacing between butt-doors on cabinets. Without proper spacing, butt-doors may not close properly during high humidity periods.

These humidity-caused sizing swings may seem extreme, but keep in mind that these calculations reflect the humidity of the worst-case the country has to offer; the desert regions of the southwest. In the southwestern deserts relative humidity routinely changes from 5% in the dry month of June, to over 90% when the monsoon storms come in July. This wide humidity swing accounts for the 4%+ change in the moisture content of wood products in the southwest. Cabinet doors installed in other parts of the country will typically be expected to experience about half this dimensional change, or about 1/32-inch.

Design provisions to accommodate dimensional changes in the raised panels of cabinet doors are in place allowing the panels to float within the stiles and rails. The panels used in recessed panel doors are either Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) or MDF core with wood veneers, which are dimensionally stable and react very little to humidity changes.

Looking at the once popular, and hopefully never to return to popularity, Slab Cabinet Door as an example , you can see the makings of a dimensional train-wreck. With the Slab Door we are not just dealing with the moisture-related dimensional properties of a 2 1/4-inch stile. We are now looking at the dimensional properties of a glued-up slab between 12 and 24 inches wide.
Using the same moisture-content calculations for plainsawn Red Oak from the Forest Service Study, we would expect to see a 12-inch wide slab door react to a 4% moisture content change with a width change of over 3/16-inch and a 24-inch slab changing width by over 5/16-inches.
Clearly width changes of these magnitudes are unacceptable and homeowners requesting slab doors need to be made fully aware of the dimensional instability of this cabinet door design.

Return to cabinetdoors.com/Blog

Visit the Cabinetdoors.com website.

How to store Unfinished Cabinet Doors to minimize warping

Prevent warping in unfinished cabinet doorsAll wood products need to be finished quickly but if you just can’t here are some things you can do to reduce the chance of damage until you can finish your new cabinet doors.

Cabinet doors, like any wood product, need to be sealed and finished as soon as possible.
Timely finishing will prevent several problems that humidity and temperature changes will cause to unfinished wood products.
A cabinet door that has been properly finished will react to climate conditions much more slowly than the same door in an unfinished state, and it is the speed of the wood’s reaction to these climatic changes that can cause adverse reactions.
For instance, the moisture gain or loss from an unfinished cabinet door exposed to wide humidity changes can be so rapid as to actually cause splitting or excessive warping.
In many cases the unfinished door may be ruined while the finished cabinet door reacts so slowly to the moisture change that damage to the door is avoided.

There are ways to minimize the damage possibilities if the doors cannot be finished quickly.

One method is to store the doors indoors in an area out of direct sunlight and away from sources of excessive heat, cold, and at a constant humidity.

Another critical method of avoiding warping is to un-wrap the doors and stack them with spaces between each door allowing air to circulate freely on all sides of each door. This method will usually eliminate the warping and keep the doors on the top and bottom of the stack from twisting due to uneven moisture between the door’s front and back. If doors are kept stacked, one on top of another, the top door will almost certainly warp in reaction to the difference between your humidity level and the door’s internal moisture content. So, it’s important to un-wrap the doors and separate them allowing air circulation around the doors.

Humidity caused warping is easily determined by looking at the doors on the outside of the stack. If the humidity is increasing the top door in the stack will warp in a concave shape with the panel raising up. Decreasing humidity will cause warping in a convex shape with the panels bending down. Allowing equal air circulation around the front and back of all the doors will prevent this warping.
The more serious problems are caused by humidity changes accompanied with high temperatures. The high temperatures increase the speed of the moisture gain or loss and can actually cause the panels and stiles to split. Very high temperatures like those in a closed-up car in the sun are almost always catastrophic.

The best method of preventing problems with cabinet doors is to finish the doors as quickly as possible. This finishing process should include sanding sealer coats followed by several coats of urethane or lacquer.

Kitchen cabinet doors that have been properly finished can be expected to last decades and increase the value and appearance of any kitchen.

If you need cabinet doors, CabinetDoors.Com can help.

Return to the Cabinet Doors/Blog

Visit the Cabinetdoors.com website.

Moisture & Product Dependability

Humidity changes don't damage properly finished kitchen cabinet doors

Ideally the wood’s moisture content will be matched so the average relative humidity of the region where the wood product will be used will allow the wood’s moisture content to be stable. When the wood moisture content and the local climate is closely matched, the finish on the cabinet door will keep the moisture content in the door from reacting too rapidly to relative humidity changes and, therefore prevent the damage those humidity swings could cause to an unfinished door.

Wood with moisture content of 7% is said to be at equilibrium (that is it won’t take-on or give-off moisture) when relative humidity is at 30%. So wood with a moisture content of 7% will be stable when the humidity is 30%. As the relative humidity increases above 30% wood at 7% moisture content will absorb moisture, increasing the wood’s moisture content. When relative humidity decreases below 30% wood at 7% moisture will give off moisture. It’s not the gaining or losing of moisture that is potentially damaging to wood products, it’s the speed of the change in moisture content. Unfinished wood will see the end-grain change moisture levels at a much faster rate than the center of the wood piece, and wood with large differences in moisture content across the length will develop significant internal stress. This internal stress can result in catastrophic damages, like cupping, warping, and even serious splitting.

Humidity is seldom constant and changes in relative humidity are certain. That’s where the cabinet doors finish offers protection. The finish is not intended to completely protect the door from the effects of humidity changes. But it is designed to slow the changes to the wood’s moisture content with the humidity fluctuations. When a rain storm approaches the relative humidity will spike but the finish on the cabinet doors will slow that high humidity from being absorbed into your doors so quickly as to cause damage. Moisture will still enter the doors, but before the wood moisture content is significantly increased, the storm will have passed and relative humidity will have returned to a point closer to the regions average level.

A more serious condition exists when an unfinished wood product has acclimated to a humidity level above 70%. If wood which has stabilized at this relative humidity is subjected to a very dry climate, with relative humidity levels around 10-15%, the high moisture content in the wood will boil-off very quickly. This condition where moisture leaves the end-grain faster than the moisture leaves the center (to replace it) is typically the major cause on end-grain splits. While end-grain splits are not even abnormal in hardwood lumber, that same end-grain split in the panel-cut of your Raised Panel Cabinet Door would be a serious defect.

The door styles most likely to show splits are Raised Panel Cabinet Doors. The area most susceptible to damage from rapid moisture loss is the end-grain on the raised panels. These panel cuts are where the panels are machined down from the ¾-inch thickness in the canter to ¼-inch thickness where the panel tongue fits into the groove machined into the Rails. Splits caused by rapid moisture loss are common in these panel end-grains. Splits in the ¾-inch thick panel center are much less common.

All traditional cope & stick cabinet doors have exposed end-grain on the stile ends which can show splitting with rapid moisture loss, although not as likely as the raised panel end-grain.

Mitered doors have the stile end-grain slightly protected because of their design so stile end-grain splits are somewhat less likely than in traditional doors.

It’s important to remember that we are talking about the worst-case of an Un-finished cabinet door being exposed to an extreme climate change. While this perfect-storm of events is likely to damage unfinished cabinet doors, there is a preventive solution; Finish your cabinet doors as soon as they are delivered!

As a rule of thumb, wood products manufactured in a damp climate and shipped into a dry climate, unless finished very soon after delivery, have a high degree of potential danger, while wood products made in a dry climate can usually be shipped into a wet climate (or any other climate) with minimal likelihood of damage. This is because most climate-caused damage to a cabinet door comes from rapid moisture loss, and damage from rapid moisture gain is far less likely. That is one of the mail reasons we built our factory in Arizona. Arizona’s dry climate allows our products to be shipped anywhere in the country with very little risk of climate related damage to the product.

The sealer and lacquer will slow the moisture migration, even in extreme climate conditions, to a point where your new doors will be a dependable, reliable, and beautiful addition to your home for generations.

When considering a location to place your unfinished cabinet doors prior to finishing, ask yourself this question; would this be a place I would store an expensive piano or other piece of fine wood furniture?

Return to the CabinetDoor.Com/Blog.

Visit the Cabinetdoors.com website

How to get rid of the nuisance “Saveeron” pop-up Ad virus

By Jim Hill March 7, 2013

There are several versions of the nuisance Saveeron or Saavron virus but they all have the same operation theory.

They place ads over whatever website you are viewing. The ads are not actually on the website, they are added by your browser with the help of this virus. Sometimes the ads are in the form of a highlighted word or phrase with the hope that you will click the link. Other times the ads are in the form of windows that slowly slide up or out from a side. Continue reading

Adopting The Metric System

Metric system for cabinet doorsLike most cabinet door manufacturers, we developed computer programs to generate cut-lists for the components used in our cabinet doors. Our program was formatted to print component sizes using fractions instead of decimal. This is because woodworkers understand a fraction like 12 7/16, but 12.4375 is not a language that comes natural to most woodworkers. Continue reading

Concealed Hinges

Inserta Blum Hinge

We can bore the hinge cups and supply the hinges too!

Cabinetdoors.com will bore the hinge pockets (two per door) in your cabinet doors for $6.00 per door and supply top quality, American-made, Blum, Clip-top Inserta Hinges for $3.50 per hinge (or $7.00 per door).

So, for $13.00 per door,  your doors will be drilled and the hinges supplied too..

The Blum Hinges we supply are top quality, self closing, American made, Blum Inserta
Clip-Top, 120 degree, All-metal, nickel plated Hinges.
The Blum part number is 71T5590B. The hinges do not require screws and are simply placed in the hinge pockets and the locking clip is then closed.

Click here for PDF on the Blum Hinges

These hinges are now used by most high-end cabinet makers across the country.

The Blum Face-frame adapter we supply is Blum part number 175L6030.21, zinc die-cast, nickel plated, and does require #7 x 3/4″ wood screws (not supplied).
Adapter plate is for Face-frame cabinets with 1/2″ overlay.

Click here for PDF on Blum Mounting Plates

If you order Hinge Boring, your doors will have 35mm holes bored 3.5 inches from the bottom and top of the door.
If you wish, doors over 48″ tall may have three hinge cups bored, with the third hinge in the door center point (3 hinges are recommended for doors over 48″ in
height).
The Blum Inserta Hinges are priced at $3.50 each ($7.00 per pair)
with the boring priced at $3.00 per cup ($6.00 per door).

The hinge boring and/or the hinge purchase options are selected from the drop-down menus on the door order page for each door style.
When selected the hinge boring charge and/or the hinge purchase charge will automatically add to the door ordered, and the itemized charge will show on your CabinetDoors.Com shopping cart.

Visit the  cabinetdoors.com website.

Return to Cabinetdoors.com Blog

Social Media

Like us on FacebookThe Door Stop has expanded our social links to include Facebook, Twitter and Youtube. To visit our accounts on each visit our website and click on the corresponding link.