FAQs

Our Custom Cabinet Doors can be used by all Do-It-Yourselfers no matter their skill level. They can be ordered unfinished ready for paint and stain, or prefinished ready to be installed.

 

Q. Do you accept returns and what are your return policies?

A. Every door we make is made-to-order for one unique customer. There are no Standard Size of cabinet doors, so every door we manufacture is custom made to the exact size the customer orders.

For this reason, we are not able to accept returns.

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Q. Could you explain the terminology and the construction of cabinet doors?

A. Certainly. Like every industry, cabinet doors has evolved a "Lingo" all it's own. The main differences are in the way the four parts that make-up the door's frame are joined together. With traditional Cope & Stick construction, the "Stiles" (which are the two vertical side pieces), and the "Rails", (the top and bottom pieces) are joined together in a modified Butt Joint. That is, the Rails are cut as rectangles with the ends at 90-degree angles to the sides. The rails are then "Coped" so the Rail-ends have the opposite (or inverse) detail to the detail on the Stiles. Then when the Cope & Stick frame is pressed together the joint between the Stile and Rail is a fine vertical line. Mitered doors are a little different. The Stiles and the Rails have their ends cut at 45-degree angles, with a hidden tongue & groove joint machined into the 45-degree cuts. Then, when the frame parts are pressed together, the hidden joint forces the Stiles & Rails into perfect alignment as well as providing superior strength to the frame. Within the Cope & Stick and Mitered categories, cabinet doors are further divided into Raised Panel, Inset Panel, or Glass Ready. Raised Panel doors have a solid panel made of edge-glued 13/16-inch wood. The perimeter of the Raised Panel is machined with a pattern that fits into a 1/4-inch groove in the Stiles & Rails. Inset panel (or Flat Panel) doors use 1/4" plywood for the panels, and Glass Frames are assembled without panels. Traditional Cope & Stick doors can have various arch designs in the Rails and Panels, but Mitered doors cannot have arches. Because Mitered doors are not Coped, Mitered doors can have a large variation in frame design, where Cope & Stick doors have more limited frame design options. Outside edges are another option. The outside edge is a design machined around the outside of the door. Some edges are a "finger pull" design which allow the door to be opened without a knob. Some can even by very decorative and detailed. You can request PDF's of our edges by emailing sales@cabinetdoors.com. 

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Q. What type of hinges do you recommend?

A. We offer top-quality, American made, self closing Blum Inserta Clip-Top, 110 degree, All-metal, nickel plated Hinges. These Hinges are top quality, self closing, American made, Blum Inserta Clip-Top, 110 degree, All-metal, nickel plated Hinges. The Blum part number is B71B359. The hinges do not require screws and are simply placed in the hinge pockets bored into the doors, and they lock into place when the locking clip is closed. These hinges are now used by most high-end cabinet makers across the country. The Face-frame adapter plate is Blum part number 175L6030.21, zinc die-cast, nickel plated, and does require two #7 x 3/4" wood screws (Included when hinges are purchased). The Adapter plate is for Face-frame cabinets with 1/2" overlay. If you order Hinge Boring, your doors will have 35mm holes bored 3 1/2 inches from the bottom and top of the door with 8mm pilot holes on either side. These pilot holes can be removed upon request. Doors under 11 inches will have the pockets bored 2 inches from the top and bottom of the door. Doors 40 inches and taller will have three hinge cups bored, with the third hinge in the door center point. 

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Q. How do I order the Hinge Boring and the Hinges?

A. The "Order Page" for each door has a Drop-Down Menu called "Boring & Hinge Options." Simply choose which option you'd like. We offer 4 options: No bore or hinges, Bore Only at 3mm offset, Bore only at 5mm offset, or Bore & Hinges. 

Click here to see a diagram of the bore pattern. Please note that our standard bore pattern includes the 8mm holes. If you are using hinges that require screws to attach you will need to purchase the plastic inserts that fit in the 8mm hole.  

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Q. Do you sell to the home-owners or only to businesses?

A. We offer our products to home owners through this internet site. For our first 30 years in business we only manufactured cabinet doors for high-end cabinet shops, custom home builders, and furniture manufacturers. With this website we can offer our product direct to the public. Not only will you receive the same top-quality high-end custom cabinet shops and home builders demand, but you can buy these doors factory-direct and save the normal middleman markup.

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Q. Do you make picture frames?

A. Although our Glass Frames are actually Cabinet Doors--without panels--they make excellent frames for pictures, posters, and paintings. In fact, they are much lower priced than picture frames and any of our Stile Cuts can be used. Glass Frames can be ordered with frame widths anywhere from 1 3/4-inches up to 3-inches, and in any wood. Frames can be from as small as 4 x 6 inches up to several feet on a side.

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Q. Can I order a different edge than the edges shown on the "pictured doors"?

A. We have shown the most popular edge on each door, but many other outside edges are available. Send us an email at sales@cabinetdoors.com requesting a list of our available edges and we will send you a PDF file showing all of our edges.

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Q. Do you ship to the country, or just large cities?

A. We ship to all 50 states and all areas within each State. We use UPS Ground for most orders and ship palletized large orders by Common Carrier, usually Saia Freight Co. 

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Q. Could you tell me more about the quality of the woods you use?

A. The majority of our cabinet doors are shipped to high-end builders and custom cabinet shops. These customers demand superior quality and that includes the highest quality woods available as well as exacting machining and superior finish sanding. We use the same top-quality woods, and the same quality-control in your doors that we supply to the builders of million dollar homes. We buy only the best quality materials from the part of the country that produces the best quality and color in each wood type we stock. No wood product manufacturer can offer a higher quality wood than we offer, because there are no higher quality woods available. We buy the highest quality woods and if any lumber mills ever offer any higher quality, we buy it.

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Q. How accurate can I get when ordering door sizes?

A. You can enter your sizes, width and height, to the nearest 1/16-inch. The website will allow you to enter the sizes as fractions (26 15/16) or decimal (26.9375). Our cutting and sizing is far more accurate than the old tape-measure method used years ago. Our cutting and sizing accuracy is measured in thousandths of an inch. Thickness is measured with dial-indicators with a tolerance of 5-thousandths of an inch. Door components are cut with computerized saws with accuracy of a few thousandths as well. All of our doors are within 30-thousandths of an inch of the requested size as they finish the production process. However, because wood expends or shrinks with changes in humidity, the doors won't hold that tolerance forever. The reason we guarantee door sizes to be within 1/16 inch is simply because all woods slightly change dimensions with changes in relative humidity. When humidity increases wood products will expand slightly and when humidity decreases slight shrinkage will occur. A 4 foot piece of wood can be expected to expand or shrink up to 1/16" with a relative humidity change of 50%.

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Q. How do you sand your doors?

A. We use very large Timesavers Wide Belt Sanders to both rough sand, and finish sand our cabinet doors. We will finish sand to 180-grit and then remove any cross-grain scratches left by the Wide Belts in the rails. 180-grit is the sanding finish most custom cabinet shops prefer and allows the widest variety of stains and finishes without the need to either "rough up" the surface or additional finer sanding. If you intend to stain some harder woods like Maple or Hickory, you may find our finish sanding to be too fine for the stain. In this case you may need rough-up the surface with more course grit to take stain. The vast majority of the finishing options will find our finish sanding perfect and won't require any additional sanding at all.

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Q. Are there any problems associated with doors built in one part of the country being shipped to another part of the country?

A. Yes, there can be some serious problems. The relationship of wood to humidity-changes is the root of the problem. Normally a wood cabinet door in your kitchen sees humidity changes all year long, but these humidity changes occur gradually so you don't see any damaging effects. When a cabinet door packaged and shipped however, these humidity changes aren't gradual; they are almost immediate and the result can be damage to the door. Humidity changes will result in moisture gain or loss from any cabinet door and that moisture change will be most rapid from the end grain...Like the end-grain on the panel cuts of raised panels and the ends of the stiles (the side pieces of the doors). If the doors are opened in a climate similar to where they were built and packaged, there will be no problems. But if the doors are opened in a climate far different from where they were packaged the problems can be severe and almost immediate. Shipping from a wet/humid climate into a dry climate will cause the end-grain of the raised panels and stiles to lose moisture at a rate faster than it can migrate from the center of the door. This can and does cause splitting in the raised panel and-cuts and the stile ends. Shipping from a dry climate into a wet climate simply causes the raised panel cuts and stile ends to absorb additional moisture which is not damaging to the doors. Our manufacturing facility is located in the dry climate of Arizona so we are able to ship into all 50 states year around without the danger of climate-difference failure.

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Q. Are there any problems associated with painting cabinet doors?

A. The answer is yes and no. Painting a cabinet door won't cause any problems to the door but the paint itself may not age as well as you expect. Because some woods paint better than others we use several wood types that have been shown to accept paint best. We use Poplar or Soft Maple for the frames and MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) for the panels. Woods with an open grain, like Oak, don't paint well because the open grain tends to paint with an Orange-peel look. One point to consider with painted cabinet doors is that the wood will expand and contract slightly with changes in humidity. This is normal and will occur even after the door is painted. The problem is that when the door swells and shrinks the paint, once dry, doesn't. This will cause cracks in the paint at the wood joints. It doesn't mean the door has failed, it simply means that the paint has dried and is no longer as elastic as the wood in the door. So with painted cabinet doors expect to see cracks in the paint appear at all joints a few months to a few years after the paint dries.

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Q. Some of my doors are over 30-inches wide. Will the width be a problem?

A. Custom Cabinet Makers limit the size of doors in their designs. These limits have evolved over time to insure that the cabinets and the doors will be reliable and trouble-free. The rule-of-thumb is that door heights of up-to 60 inches are seldom a reliability problem. Door widths, however should be kept to under 24-inches. The reason the width is an issue is because wood expands or shrinks in width with changes in humidity, far more than it changes in length. These humidity-caused width changes can actually cause the expanding panel to push the door frame apart. By keeping the panels below 24-inches (and our allowing for 1/4" of panel expansion room in the stiles) we remove the possibility of door failure due to increasing humidity. We can manufacture a door that is 30" but there is no warranty.

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Q. Is there a lower priced shipping choice available?

A. Sometimes by palletizing a large order, instead of packing over a dozen boxes, shipping cost can be reduced. The main reason for the freight saving is weight. We are limited by UPS to keep weight lower per box so that the driver can lift the box. There is no weight limit for truck shipments. So instead of packing a dozen boxes, we build and pack one pallet. Large orders, over 25 doors can usually be packed on a pallet and shipped by truck. The larger the order the greater the saving. For large orders we always check Truck Shipping rates against UPS, and if we can save you money on shipping we will refund the difference.

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Q. Can I get Slab Drawer Fronts with a different edge than the one you show?

A. Yes you can. If you order Slab Drawer Fronts along with Cabinet Doors, we will machine the same edge on your Slab Drawer Fronts that is machined on your doors. But, if you are ordering only Slab Drawer Fronts and you want one of our other edges simply state in the "Additional Instructions" area of the order form that you want a different edge. We will be happy to email a PDF showing all of our edge choices. Just email us at sales@cabinetdoors.com and request the PDF or our edge details.

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Q. What type and grade of Oak do you use?

A. We use only the highest grade in all our wood selections. We do offer both White and Red Oak but there is a lot of confusion relating to these woods. The specie White Oak is different from the specie, Red Oak, and the color of White Oak is very different from the color of our Red Oak. White oak is usually gray in color, very dense, and is mainly used to make whisky barrels and truck flooring. White Oak is not usually desired in Cabinet Doors because it is a darker gray color, it's heavy, and it has a smell that most people don't feel is especially pleasant. Red Oak ranges in color from deep-red at the Southern end of the growing range through a light "wheat color" in the Northern end of the growing range. Our Red Oak comes from a subsection of the Northern range. We buy this from mills in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and Northern Wisconsin. Red Oak from this region has tight growth rings due to the cold northern climate, and a very-light wheat color due to the local soil conditions. Our Red Oak is much lighter in color than White Oak and it is considered to be the best quality Red Oak in the world. It's the best and that's why we use it in all our Select Oak doors and drawer fronts.

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Q. Some of my cabinet doors will be over 50-inches tall. At what height do you recommend a center rail?

A. On Mitered cabinet doors center rails are not used but on Cope & Stick (traditional) doors, a center rail is placed in all doors 50-inches in height and taller.

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Q. Some internet sites quote up to 6 weeks for delivery. What is your delivery time?

A. Our manufacturing time varies from 20 to 25 business days, depending on the style of door you have chosen. Door styles with Applied Molding, French lite doors, or very large orders may require additional time.. Delivery time is determined by UPS and is dependent upon distance, which varies between 1 and 6 days. Painted or lacquered doors ship in 6-to-8 weeks. These are estimated lead times and can vary due to circumstances such as holidays, machine failure, etc.

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Q. Do you have a minimum door size or a minimum door price?

A. Yes, each door has a minimum width and a minimum height and a maximum width and maximum height These min/max's are listed on the door style page of each door we make. We also have a minimum price for doors and 5-piece drawer fronts. 

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Q. Your website doesn't offer glued-up slab doors. Do you make them??

A. No we don't offer Glued-up Slab cabinet doors. Glued-up Slab doors are simply not a reliable design because they are very likely to warp with changes in relative humidity.

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Q. What material do you use for Paint Grade cabinet doors?

A. The panels in doors and 5-piece drawer fronts will either be Poplar, Soft Maple, or MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). The frames will be Poplar or Soft Maple. Slab drawer fronts will be Poplar, Soft Maple, or MDF. The Poplar, Soft Maple, and MDF take paint very well.

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Q. Should I expect my cabinet doors to expand or shrink when the humidity changes?

A. Yes, all wood products will slightly change dimensions with changes in relative humidity. Cabinet doors are no exception to this humidity change rule. Here is a brief summary of why wood changes, and what you should expect from your doors.. Any wood product, with a moisture content of about 7% (normal for wood products inside a home) will be at equilibrium (not take-on or give-off moisture) when the relative humidity is 30%. The change in door dimensions occur when the relative humidity varies from the average 30%. If the humidity goes down the dimensional change to the door will be minimal and most likely will go unnoticed. If the humidity increases up to 40% or even 50%, the change will also be minimal. When you experience humidity levels over 70% changes in door dimensions will occur and the extent of the changes will depend upon the length of time the humidity stays at the high levels. A properly finished cabinet door will react slowly to higher humidity, but within a few weeks of high humidity the door will stabilize at the higher humidity and it's width expansion will be completed. The width of the fully humidity-expanded door (with slight differences between wood types) will be between 1/32-inch and 1/16-inch wider than the width at 30% relative humidity. Length expansion, because of wood grain structure, will not be noticeable.

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Q. What payment options do you offer?

A. We accept all major credit cards. Our Credit connection is encrypted for your safety, and to safeguard your privacy, your credit card information is not retained by CabinetDoors.Com.

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Q. Are imperfections in the paint of my painted doors considered defects?

A. If the imperfection cannot be seen when two feet away from the door with it in the vertical position, it is NOT considered a defect.

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Q. Lead Times?

A. Unfinished doors and drawer fronts ship in 12 - 20 business days depending on the style of door chosen. Painted or finished doors and drawer fronts, add 25 - 30 business days.

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