Today cabinet remodelers and refacers are able to produce a do-it-yourself finish on new cabinet doors that will compare favorably to that of an experienced, expert cabinet maker.
There are different methods of arriving at this superior level of finish, and those methods depend upon whether you intend to stain and lacquer the cabinet doors or paint them.
Those wanting a stained and lacquered finish need to consider the type of wood to be stained and choose the stain accordingly.
For instance Oak is very easy to stain. It takes stain evenly and is probably the easiest to stain and most forgiving wood available. It’s almost indestructible and is easy to sand and refinish after a generation of growing family use and abuse.
A very attractive as well a quick and easy method of staining and finishing oak cabinet doors is to use Minwax Golden Oak Stain, followed by two coats og Minwax
Just lay the doors flat and paint on the Golden Oak Stain (I use a 2-inch foam brush for this). Get the stain on all sides and edges, as well as into the panel-frame joints. Within five minutes wipe off the excess stain and let the doors sit for a few hours.
As the stain dries you may see small shiny areas where the stain is seeping back out of the grain, Wipe these areas off as they appear. After two or three times wiping these spots off they will stop seeping.
Now, if you want the door to be a little darker, just apply the stain again. The door will take more stain and become darker but it will also seep more. Just be sure to keep removing the seeping stain as it appears.
After about a day of drying you are ready to protect the door with some polyurethane.
I prefer to use the brush-on Minwax Polyurethane instead of the spray cans.
Just brush on a thin coat of the Polyurethane and let it dry (usually about 4 hours, depending on temp and humidity).
After the first coat has dried sand VERY LIGHTLY with 220 grit. Blow off the dust and apply a second coat.
After the second coat is dry you are finished.
Don’t worry about runs in the finish ruining a door. If you see any runs just sand them away (careful not to sand through the stain) and apply another coat of Polyurethane.
Although the Minwax Golden Oak is great for Oak and super easy to get professional results, not everyone wants Oak doors.
Here is where staining advice gets tricky. Not all wood types take stain the same and some woods take stain differently across the same board.
Foe instance, Maple and Hickory are very dense woods and stain doesn’t soak in evenly. This tends to produce a “blotchy” look. These very hard woods can be induced to absorb stain better by sanding with a more coarse grit of sandpaper. Most cabinet doors are sanded to 180-grit so if your doors are not absorbing the stain as you intended you might want to re-sand them with 150, or even 120 grit paper.
Also remember the 5-F rule. Fine Finishers Finish Firewood First–meaning try your finishing method on some scrap of the same wood as your doors.
When ordering your replacement doors just mention in the Comments Section that you would like some wood scrap from your door order and we’ll include them with your order at no charge.
Another rule I always follow is to stain the back of the doors first. Then when you decide you don’t like the result, you can stop and adjust after the first door back. Nobody ever sees the backs anyway.
Here are some tried and true rules of thumb that relate to painting Kitchen Cabinet Doors.
* The first is the “prep-prep-prep” rule. That means that every hour spent preparing the cabinet door for painting saves two hours in repainting.
* The second is the 5-F’s rule. This rule is “Fine Finishers Finish Firewood First”. It simply means that experimenting with your finish on scrap wood can prevent ruining a door with a failed finishing attempt.
* The third is always break all sharp edges with fine sandpaper before painting. Sharp edges will not hold paint and will give the dried paint an unpainted spot to absorb moisture.
* The forth is to keep in mind that all wood types will expand and contract with changes in humidity. The paint will slow these humidity-caused wood movements, but no paint is totally moisture-proof, and paint will not stop the movements. This humidity-movement of wood presents another potential issue for the painted cabinet door. When the paint dries, it will no longer have the elasticity to move with the wood; so it will crack, usually along the glue joints where the Stiles & Rails join.
* The fifth relates to the hardness of the paint-grade wood. The softer the wood, the more easily it will dent, if hit with a pot or frying pan. The dent in the wood may be slight and hardly noticeable, but dried paint doesn’t dent without cracking. The weakest link in any painted cabinet door is not the door. Regardless of the wood type used, the weakest link is always the paint.
* The sixth practice covers the method of application of the paint. The desired look from painting a cabinet door is usually a high gloss finish, similar to the finish on a piano. A finish of this quality will certainly require a highly experienced finishing professional, and a dust-free spray booth. This doesn’t mean you can’t achieve an excellent finish, but it does mean you won’t get this piano-finish with a paint brush in your driveway. To get a professional looking finish you will need to spray-on the paint. Not from a Krylon can, but from an compressed-air, or airless, spray painting system.
Now for the step-by-step process I’ve learned through years of both success and a few failures.
Lets get started by working through the process step-by-step.
Lay the door on a flat surface and lightly sand the door with a flexible-foam sanding sponge (I like the 3M sanding block sponges best) or 220-grit sandpaper. Be sure to sand “with the wood grain” on the front, back, and sides.
Remove any residual grit with a clean cloth (tack cloth is best) or a vacuum.
Next comes what is probably the most important step in the entire process. Sealing and priming the wood.
The priming coat, is also called a sealing coat, or a Sealing indicating coat. These are essentially the same thing. It’s purpose is to seal the wood so that the final paint will adhere evenly and also make it easy to spot uneven areas in the wood while it’s still easy to correct the blemish. Primer can be applied by brush or roller. I like to use a roller for the bigger areas followed by a good quality brush for smoothing and painting the finer details on the cabinet doors. You won’t need the $25 brush but don’t get the $1 brush either. Expect to pay $6-$10 for a good, fine-bristle brush. Try not to get paint all over the brush, dipping only about 1/2″ to 1″ into the paint is best. Also, between coats you can place the brush in a plastic bag to keep it from drying out, and avoid cleaning it until the end of each day.
Any hardware or paint store will have a wide selection of sealer/primer and paint for your doors. Be sure and match the primer with the paint you plan to use. If you are going to use latex (water based) paint, use a latex primer. If using an oil based paint, use an oil based primer. Also try to use a primer with a drying time of 30 minutes or less. White primer works best because it will show the uneven areas of the door better. This allows you to spot (and correct) the areas that need filling before painting.
Once the first coat of primer is dry you will be able to see some small, uneven areas, scratches, or dents in the wood. Now it’s time for the filler. This is the most important step in obtaining that perfect painted finish.
All hardwoods have voids, which cannot be seen until it is primed. I use a filler to fill all of these spots. The two types of filler I’ve used with success are Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot Putty and Elmer’s Wood Filler Max White. The Bondo putty works best, mainly because it is an orange color than makes it easier to see where you have filled. The Elmer’s is white. Fillers must be sanded smooth after drying and then sealed with primer before painting to prevent the color from bleeding through.
After filling, sand the filled areas (use the 3M sponge to keep your fingers from sanding dips in the filled areas), wipe the dust off, and apply one last primer coat.
When the primer has dried, give the doors a light sanding and wipe them clean of any dust. If the final inspection doesn’t show any unfilled scratches or small voids, you are ready to paint.
Now comes the actual painting, which is actually the easiest phase of the project. But without going through the priming-sanding-filling-priming process, there would be little chance of obtaining a truly great painted cabinet door.
Using the same technique you used with the primer–roller for the large areas, and paint brush to smooth and paint the smaller and detailed areas–apply your paint to the doors.
There is no need to sand between paint coats but it is a good idea to insure there is no dried paint on the brush that could work its way into your finish on the following coats.
Although the finish may look good after one coat of paint, two coats are normally applied to assure durability of the finish. Just follow the directions on your paint (and primer) and follow the drying time recommendations.
Here is a link to the CabinetDoors.Com Blog where you will find several other posts on finding, sizing, ordering, painting, and staining Unfinished Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors.
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